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- Archive-name: birds-faq/pets/part1
- Last-modified: 1994/7/6
- Version: 6
-
- ===============================================================================
-
- There was an old man of Dunrose;
- A Parrot seized hold of his nose.
- When he grew melancholy, They said, "His name's Polly,"
- Which soothed that old man of Dunrose.
-
- --Edward Lear
- ===============================================================================
-
-
- * * * W E L C O M E T O T H E F A Q * * *
- Freqently (A)sked (Q)uestions regarding rec.pets.birds.
-
- P A R T I
- ==========
-
- This is a monthly posting of topics regarding birds that may prove
- useful to those new to this group or to the rewarding hobby of keeping birds.
- Or, more accurately, of your bird keeping you!
-
- Comments, suggestions, chocolates to: Jodi Giannini (giannini@nova.umd.edu)
- This FAQ, as a collection of information, is copyrighted 1993,
- by Jodi L. Giannini, and distribution by means other than Usenet is by
- permission only. Removal of this copyright notice is not permitted.
-
- Thanks, gratitude, and pats on the back to: Rocky Giannini for proofreading and
- doing the technical type stuff, Tom Baker for archiving, Ruth D. Miller,
- Larry J. Brackney, Kate Finn, Kelly Flynn and all of the other
- rec.pet.bird readers who contributed--Thank you very much!
-
- Topics that are covered in Part 1 are: Bird magazines, books, and the like;
- Basic bird terminology; Choosing/Buying a bird; Cages, perches and Bird toys.
-
- Part 2 covers Diet and feeding; Taming and training; Travel with birds;
- Finding an avian vet; Health; Hazards; and First Aid.
-
- Part 3 covers Birds and Lung Cancer.
-
- Part 4 lists various Veterinarians througout the country.
-
- Species Specific Faq's cover the named species: Poicephalus, Greys,
- Macaws (there are separate faq's for the large and 'mini' macaws), Lories
- and Lorikeets.
-
- ***This FAQ is by no means meant to replace the many wonderful and informative
- books, breeders, magazines, and veterinarians that are out there.***
-
-
- ===============================================================================
- B I R D - M A G A Z I N E S - B O O K S - E T C
- ===============================================================================
-
-
- ==MAGAZINES==
- *Note: Information is as current as possible, but costs do change. All
- the magazines are published monthly unless otherwise noted.
-
- BIRD TALK MAGAZINE (Subscription Dept)
- P.O. BOX 57347
- Boulder, CO, 80323-7347
- (303) 786-7306
- *One year $25.97 (U.S.)
- Canada and Foreign add $6.00 Canada add $8.00 plus 7% GST
- U.S. Funds, International M.O. Foreign add $12.00 International M.O.
- Visa and Mastercard accepted California residents add 7.25% sales tax
-
-
- CAGE BIRD HOBBYIST (Quarterly**) PARROT WORLD (Bi-monthly)
- P.O. BOX 427 8 No. Hoffman Lane, Dept. BT
- Neptune, NJ, 07753-0427 Hauppage, NY, 11788
- No number available 1-800-538-8184
- *One year $9.00 (U.S.) *One Year $21.95 (U.S)
- Canada and Foreign add $4.00 Canada $29.95 (U.S. Funds)
- U.S. Funds only Foreign $37.95 (U.S. Funds)
- **Should be going monthly Visa, Mastercard, American Express
- sometime soon Checks and Money Orders accepted
-
-
- ==BOOKS==
-
-
- *Note: These are some of the books I've found useful. They are nice for the
- hobbyist, being not so much for the science of breeding. They're a good start.
- Bird Talk has monthly book reviews, and you may want to ask your vet or
- breeder to recommend some titles to you.
-
- Guide To A Well-Behaved Parrot
- by Mattie Sue Athan
- ISBN 0-8120-4996-9
- Barron's Publishers
- Copyright 1993
-
- You and Your Pet Bird (softcover) The Bird Care Book (softcover)
- by David Alderton by Sheldon L. Gerstenfeld, V.M.D.
- ISBN 0-679-74061-9 ISBN 0-201-03909-5
- Alfred A. Knopf, Publisher Addison-Wesley Publishing Company
- Copyright 1992 Copyright 1981
-
- The Complete Book of Parrots Seed-Eating Birds (softcover)
- by Rosemary Low (finches, canaries, and such)
- ISBN 0-8120-5971-9 by Jefferey Trollope
- Barron's Publishing Sterling Publishing
- Copyright 1988 Copyright 1992
-
-
- ==ETCETERA==
-
-
- Sally Blanchard's Pet Bird Report
- Bimonthly publication
- $18.00 U.S.A.
- $26.00 Canada
- The Pet Bird Report
- 2236 Mariner Square Drive #35
- Alameda, CA 94501
-
- Sally Blanchard is a bird behaviorist who is a regular columnist with
- Bird Talk Magazine. This newsletter has tips about training, taming,
- why birds do what birds do, and all kinds of information for bird owners.
-
- There are also all kinds of videos about birds available through the
- various classified ads in bird magazines. They might be worth a look.
- Bird clubs are wonderful too. I recently joined one myself. It was just
- great to meet other bird people, ask questions, and get all kinds of
- information. It's really a good idea. A great source of information is your
- local breeder. Most breeders will gladly take time to answer questions.
-
-
- ===============================================================================
- B A S I C B I R D T E R M I N O L O G Y
- ===============================================================================
-
-
- BLOODFEATHER--Any feather which still has a blood supply to it.
-
- CHROMOSOMES--a male bird has two Z(sex)chromosomes and a female one Z and
- one W. These can be seen under a microscope and are used in chromosome
- analysis to determine the sex of the bird. (See KARYOTYPING)
-
- CITES--(C)onvention on (I)nternational (T)rade in (E)ndangered (S)pecies.
- This body regulates trade of parrots throughout various countries.
- Most parrots are on CITES Appendix 2, which means that the country
- that is exporting the birds may only issue export permits if the
- exportation of the bird does not endanger the survival of the species.
- Extremely rare and threatened species go on Appendix I, which means
- any sort of exportation is explicitly forbidden and illegal. Palm
- Cockatoos and Hyacithine Macaws are an example of CITES Appendix I
- birds. As of this last Faq update, importation of Amazon parrots
- has stopped completely (Appendix I status).
-
- CLOSED-BAND--a completely closed ring of metal that can only be put on a
- bird within a certain time, usually from 8-10 days in a small bird and
- up to four weeks in the larger species of birds. The bands
- are usually imprinted with hatchdate and place of origin. They are
- generally accepted as proof of domesticity and age. However, some
- unscrupulous people may force a closed-band onto an imported bird. Look
- for a band that seems too big.
-
- COCK---Any male bird of a species.
-
- DIMORPHIC--A species is said to be dimorphic when there are distinct visual
- characteristics between the sexes. Gray Cockatiels are an example of
- this; a male bird has a bright yellow head. Eclectus are also
- dimorphic, the male bird is green, and the female, red. Eclectus are
- unusual in that the female is more colorful than the male. This is
- called "Reverse Dimorphism".
- (See MONOMORPHIC)
-
- DOMESTIC--A bird that has been bred within the country.
-
- FEATHER SEXING--See KARYOTYPING
-
- FLEDGLING--A baby bird that is out of the nest, but not eating by itself.
-
- HAND-FED--also "Hand-reared" or "Hand-raised". The babies are taken from
- parents at about two weeks, and then fed by people, using spoons,
- pipettes or syringes and a special baby-bird formula. This results
- in a bonding of the bird to people, and a friendlier, more tame
- bird.
-
- HEN----Female bird of any species.
-
- IMPORTED--A bird brought in from another country. An imported bird will have
- an open-band on its leg.
-
- KARYOTYPING--A method of sexing which is non-invasive. A drop of blood is
- taken from the bird, usually by pulling out a bloodfeather. The pulp
- and blood from the feather is then cultured until there are enough
- cells to do a chromosome preparation. The number of chromosomes then
- is looked at to determine the sex of the bird. (See SURGICAL SEXING)
-
- MONOMORPHIC--Both sexes of the bird appear identical.
-
- OPEN-BAND--This type of band, which is squeezed shut around the bird's leg
- is indicative of an imported bird.
-
- PARROT FEVER--See PSITTACOSIS, ZOONOSES
-
- PBFD---(P)sittacine (B)eak and (F)eather (D)isease. A serious viral disease
- which is *highly* contagious. There is no cure. PBFD causes deformed
- feathers which fall out, the beak softens and becomes misshapen, and
- the virus can affect internal organs. Birds usually die of a secondary
- infection of some sort. The virus can be spread through the feces and
- feather dust and the virus can be found in the birds' crop as well. It
- can affect several different species of birds, but is most common among
- Cockatoos.
-
- PSITTACOSIS--A curable bacterial disease that can affect BOTH humans and birds.
- It's also called "Parrot Fever", "Chlamydiosis", and "Ornithosis".
- Psittacosis is spread through inhalation of feather and fecal dust.
- Bacterial tests can detect it. The disease manifests itself with
- flu-like symptoms in people. Infected birds are quarantined (isolated)
- and treated with Tetracycline or another broad-spectrum antibiotic.
-
- QUARANTINE--A period of isolation required for imported birds. These birds
- are often given various medications to insure that they do not carry
- Psittacosis or other contagious diseases. Also, it is a good idea
- to isolate a sick bird from other pet birds or birds in an aviary.
-
- SURGICAL SEXING--Also abbreviated as S.S. or S/S. Since many bird species
- are monomorphic, one way to tell one bird from the other is to
- do it surgically, using a method called laproscopy. The bird is
- anesthetized, and a small slit cut into the bird's body. A tiny
- incision is made and a laproscope is inserted, allowing the vet to view
- the reproductive organs, thus sexing the bird.
-
- WEANED--The bird is out of the nest, and eating on its own. In hand-fed birds
- the bird is no longer on baby formula and eating seeds and other solids.
-
- ZOONOSES--A zoonosis (singular) is any disease of animals that can be
- contracted by a human being. There are over 100 types of these.
- One of the most widely publicized is Psittacosis (SEE PSITTACOSIS).
- For reasons like this, all imported birds must be quarantined upon
- entering this country. (See QUARANTINE)
-
-
- ===============================================================================
- C H O O S I N G A B I R D
- ===============================================================================
-
-
- ***HELP! WHERE DO I BEGIN?***
- First, you want to take into consideration these things:
- 1. What can I afford?
- Cost varies according to the type of bird being purchased. You can get a pair
- of Finches for about twenty dollars, a Budgie for about the same. Cockatiels
- range from $40 to $100, Amazons $250 to $800...and a Hyacinth Macaw can
- command upwards from $6,000! Set a budget, and work from there. But let the
- buyer beware of "bargain birds"--they're usually not worth it. Hand-fed birds
- are well worth the extra cost.
-
- 2. How much space will the bird need?
- The larger birds and even some of the smaller ones, are very active and need
- large cages and areas to play in. It's not fair to cramp a bird in a small
- cage.
-
- 3. Do I have the *time* for a bird?
- This is probably the most important question. Birds are intelligent, playful,
- and most of all, *social* animals. Will you have time to play with your bird?
- To properly care for it? Will you have an opportunity to be part of your
- family? Also, consider time in this sense--Birds are rather long lived.
- A little Cockatiel can live up to 20 years! An Amazon or a Grey, could live
- 50 or 60, there are documented cases of some birds living to be 100! Can you
- commit to that?! It's not unusual for birds to be passed down to another
- generation. Don't buy a bird if you think you will quickly tire of it.
-
- 4. How noisy is the bird? Will the neighbors complain?
- Budgies and Cockatiels are rather quiet. They are good for apartment dwellers.
- A Moluccan Cockatoo could work in an apartment, as long as you have neighbors
- on the sides and sixth floor that like to listen to head-splitting screams.
- Aratinga conures are noted for their squawking--Sun Conures belong to this
- genus. Pyrhurra conures (I have one) are rather quiet. Of course, there are
- variations due to the personality of the bird. There may be a quiet Cockatoo
- somewhere. If there is, someone should market it, they'd make a fortune.
-
- 5. How destructive is the bird?
- Do you have priceless heirloom furniture? Rare books? Keep in mind that birds
- have powerful beaks. Some birds are less prone to "chewing" than others.
-
- 6. Does the bird need a special diet?
- Lories and Toucans, for example, require specialized diets. Do you have the
- ways and means to provide it?
-
- Once you you've done your research and decided what kind of bird you want,
- now is time to go out and buy a bird. Never, ever, buy a bird on impulse.
-
-
- ==WHAT DO I LOOK FOR WHEN I BUY MY BIRD?==
-
- First off, you want to make certain you get a healthy, happy bird.
- In general you want to look for:
-
- 1. An alert disposition. The bird should be interested in its environment.
- It should be active. Avoid puffed-up and sleepy-looking birds.
-
- 2. Feathering: Make sure feathering is shiny and without bare patches.
- On long-tailed species like Macaws, take a good look at the tail.
- If there are thin lines running across tailfeathers, it's usually a good
- indicator of poor nutrition. Please note that baby birds often look
- rather tatty, with the feathers somewhat frayed. This is normal. Lutino
- Cockatiels will have a bald spot, which varies in size behind their
- crest. This is genetic and cannot be helped. Although do try to avoid
- 'tiels with extremely large bald patches.
-
- 3. Eyes: The eyes should be bright and clear. There should be no discharge.
- There should be no swelling.
-
- 4. Nostrils should be clear of any blockages. They should be of the same
- size and shape. In birds with bare facial patches (Macaws) the skin
- should be clear and white. A flush of red sometimes indicates an
- infection of the sinus cavities. A scaly appearance of the cere (fleshy
- part around nostrils) indicates scaly face (common in Budgies) a disease
- caused by mites.
-
- 5. Upper and lower parts of the beak (the mandibles) should meet cleanly,
- with no signs of separation. In Cockatoos, the beak should be grayish,
- covered with powder. Never buy an older Cockatoo with a shiny black beak.
- is a sure indication that something is wrong. Baby Cockatoo beaks will
- be somewhat shiny.
-
- 6. Feet should have all toes, although a missing toe or claw for a pet isn't
- a bad thing. It is however, out of the question for a show bird.
- More than one toe or claw gone will hamper the bird's perching ability.
- The bird should be able to grip its perch or your hand firmly.
- The feet of a young bird should be smooth and soft. Older birds have
- feet which are more scaly. Excessive scaliness is not good, and can be
- indicative of vitamin A deficiency.
-
- 7. Breathing should be regular and even. No wheezing, snorting or straining
- allowed.
-
- 8. The bird should not be too skinny. To check for this, ask someone to
- hold the bird while you feel along the sides of its keel (breast) bone. It
- should be well fleshed out. If you can see the keel protruding,
- the bird is obviously underweight, and might be suffering some illness.
-
- 9. While the person has the bird, have them turn it over and check the
- vent area. It should be clean and clear of stains or pasted feces.
-
- 10. Ask to handle the bird yourself. Observe it. Is the bird steady? Calm?
- Does the bird come readily to you? Does it show good socialization
- behavior? Did it bite the ($*# out of you?
-
- 11. Look to see if the bird is banded. This is indicative of imported or
- domestic birds, depending on the type of band used.
-
- 12. Aside from the bands, another way (not so accurate) to tell a baby or
- younger bird is by looking at its beak and feet. In a young bird, these
- are soft and smooth. Older birds have scaly feet and beaks that show
- wear. Also, in some species, the eyes change color as the bird ages.
- Baby Greys and Timnehs have dark eyes which lighten. Macaws' eyes
- lighten, too.
-
-
- ==I'VE SELECTED MY BIRD AND I'M BUYING IT. WHAT SHOULD I DO NOW?==
-
- 1. You should make sure that if the bird does not pass a vet exam, you
- have the privilege of returning/exchanging the bird within a certain
- and reasonable amount of time. Some dealers include a vet check in
- the purchase price, but ask if you can take the bird to your vet as
- well.
-
- 2. Get a *written* bill of sale, clearly stating the terms of the sale,
- which really should include:
-
- A. The privilege to return the bird if it is not up to par.
- B. Date of purchase and any other conditions of sale.
- C. The amount that you paid for the bird, method of payment (cash, etc)
- D. The bird's band number.
- E. The hatch date of the bird
- F. A full description of the bird, scientific name, any unusual marks,
- and the bird's sex (if known)
- G. If the bird is imported, get all the proper documentation for it.
-
- Such information might prove useful when retrieving a stolen bird, or if you
- should ever have to prove ownership of your avian amigo.
-
- 3. Get written instructions on diet, care, and such.
-
- 4. Get the number of the breeder/store and the number of an avian vet,
- if you don't have one already. (Which you should!!!)
-
-
- ==GETTING POLLY HOME==
-
-
- Bringing the bird home in a cage would make sense, but it is less stressing
- for the bird if you bring it home in a secure, darkened carrier. A cardboard
- box with some airholes in it is ideal for small birds. A plastic carrier
- the ones for used for cats and dogs, and covered with a towel is excellent
- for larger birds. Move the birds individually whenever possible. For a
- journey of an hour or so, no food is needed. For a long haul, sprinkle some
- food on the floor of the carrier. Use firm, moist fruits to provide liquids.
- Never put the birds in the trunk of a car. Try not to stop too often.
-
- Try to have the cage already set up at home. You can then put the new
- arrival into its new cage, and let it rest and get used to the new scenery.
- It is a good idea to isolate it from the rest of your pet birds. Two weeks
- is a fair time.
-
- If you are buying a bird that will have to be airshipped, you will pay
- for a carrier and the airfreight. You may also pay what is called a
- "crate" or "box" fee. You will then pick up the bird at the nearest
- airport.
-
-
- ===============================================================================
- B I R D C A G E S A N D P E R C H E S
- ===============================================================================
-
-
- ==CAGES==
-
- Q. What size cage do I need to get for my bird?
- A. Get the largest you can possibly afford. This is where the bird will
- spend a great deal of it's time. A good rule of thumb is
- that the bird should be able to stretch out its wings fully in at
- least one direction. Note that "outstretched wing length" refers to
- the span of the *unclipped* wings.
-
- Q. Is bar spacing important?
- A. Yes. If it is too large, a smaller bird could hang itself.
- 1 3/16 is a good space for medium birds and 1 3/8 is good for larger.
- 3/4 inch spacing is fine for cockatiels, smaller than that for finches.
- (respectively 3.02, 3.50, and 1.90 cm)
-
- Q. What about horizontal vs. vertical bars?
- A. Horizontal bars are nice for the birds because they're easy to climb.
- Vertical bars make it hard to climb, but don't fray long tailfeathers.
- Cages are now available that have vertical front and back bars and
- horizontal side bars. This should please everyone.
-
- Q. What kind of metal is used for the cages?
- A. Anodized aluminum, Brass, stainless steel, wrought iron.
- For some of the smaller cages for less destructive birds, wood and
- clear acrylic sheeting, like Plexiglas(tm), may be used.
-
- Q. I'd like a colored cage...can I get one?
- A. Some cages are available with a "powder coat finish" so you can get
- them in different colors, however, birds can eventually gnaw the finish
- off. There are epoxy painted cages as well. Some cages come in
- wood cabinets, and you can order custom designs to match your decor.
-
- Q. Do I need a wrought iron cage with those fancy curlicues?
- A. Nope. The fancy stuff can be hard to clean, and the bird can get
- caught in it.
-
- Q. What's a knock down cage?
- A. It's a cage that comes shipped flat and unassembled. Nut and bolt
- assemblies hold it together. Be careful if you have a mechanically
- inclined bird, it might loosen screws. Check the every so often.
- One piece cages are just that. They're completely assembled and welded
- together.
-
- Q. I've seen great deals on cages, should I get one?
- A. Sure, as long as it's sturdy and safe. Check for sharp corners,
- poor latches, shoddy paint. Paint can be toxic and if the bird gnaws on it
- disaster could ensue. Look at the welds. Are they smooth and virtually
- invisible? Give the cage a good shake. Does it stand firm, or sway
- precariously? This is your bird's house we're talking about, here.
- When in doubt, don't buy it. Be extra careful about imported cages,
- they can be painted with lead paint or be shoddily made. One thing
- that is often ignored is the tray in the bottom of the cage. Make
- sure it has smooth, finished edges. I recently came across a cage
- that looked great, until I pulled out the tray. It was simply a
- piece of galvanized metal with a front lip. The back and sides weren't
- finished, and they were rather sharp. Even with a grate, I wouldn't
- use such a tray. Improbable accidents do happen, and I wouldn't want
- my birds to lose a toe or worse because I wanted to save a few bucks.
-
- Q. I don't have the money for a new cage, how about a used one?
- A. As long as the bird didn't die of some contagious disease, it should
- be fine. Disinfect the cage thoroughly. One text I came across
- suggests taking a portable blowtorch and searing the cage. This
- would definitely kill any yuckies, but would melt anything other than
- a thick steel or iron cage. A disinfectant used in avaries would
- probably be great.
-
- Q. Where should the cage be placed?
- A. Never in direct sunlight! But a bright area close to the hubbub of
- your household is ideal. There should be no drafts of hot or cold
- air. The kitchen, due to fumes, flames, and such is a poor idea.
- Dreary basements are a poor choice too. A finished basement is fine,
- as long as it's not damp and has good circulation and there's action
- going on that the bird can be part of.
-
- Q. Do I really need to cover the cage?
- A. Depends on the bird. Birds, like people, need undisturbed sleep.
- If the bird is in a room you can darken, then no, you don't need a cover.
- Sometimes, the bird may be scared of the covered cage. Other times,
- birds may refuse to go to sleep if the cage isn't covered, and will
- holler for it. If you turn down the heat in your house at night,
- covering the cage is really a good idea. You can get custom covers made
- to fit any size or shape or use a sheet or a blanket. Covering a cage
- can help reduce screaming at the break of day.
-
- Q. How do I clean the bird's cage?
- A. Warm, soapy water and a sponge work well. You may want to use some
- sort of disinfectant. Rinse well no matter what, and make sure that
- everything is dry before putting the bird back in.
-
- Q. What should I use for as a tray liner?
- A. There are several options, and much debate over what is best.
- You could use: no liner, gravel paper, plain newsprint paper, shavings,
- processed cobs, newspaper. Birds should not ingest any of the above,
- although plain paper isn't harmful, it will get soiled. A grid above
- the tray will prevent ingestion of liner material and any dropped and
- soiled food. Newspaper itself is not toxic, but some inks are. You can
- call your local paper to find out what type of ink they use. Soy-based
- inks are non-toxic. No liner means you've got to scrub out the pan,
- to which the poop has probably cemented itself. Processed cobs can
- actually be used with or without a grid, but make sure your bird
- doesn't eat them. There is commercially prepared gravel paper, but
- it's hard to find in the larger sizes and the gravel usually doesn't
- stick to it very well, and ends up all over.
-
- **HELP! My bird is an escape artist!***
- Sammy, the green-cheeked conure (Pyrrhura molinae) kept escaping from
- his cage via the sliding door, and the food accesses. I "wired" them
- shut with Quick Links(tm)--c-type links. They were easier than messing
- with those plastic "pine tree" type garbage bag ties. You may have to
- use padlocks with larger birds. However some of them are *very*
- mechanically inclined (especially Cockatoos) and may very well pick the
- lock. For the die hard cases, use combination locks.
-
- SOURCES FOR CAGES:
- *Note: I went shopping for cages. These I wrote to.
-
- Animal Environments Inglebrook Forges
- 2270 Camino Vida Roble, Ste. 1 151 N. San Dimas Canyon Rd.
- Carlsbad, CA, 92009 San Dimas, CA, 91773
-
- King's Aviary Quisenberry Enterprises
- 256-8 Craft Ave. 915 Glen Arrow Hwy.
- Rosedale, NY 11422 Glendora, CA, 91740
-
- *This is who I ultimately purchased from:
-
- The Pet Ranch
- 3015 Pioneer Way
- Jamul, CA, 91935
- (619) 669 - 1089
-
- A wrought iron Macaw cage (24 x 36 x 65 inches) was 249.00 plus 54.29
- shipping (from CA to MD, mind you).
- A Cockatoo cage was 199.00 (don't know shipping) (prices as of 10/14/93).
-
-
- ==PERCHES==
-
-
- Q. What kinds of perch(es) does my bird need?
- A. Your bird needs an assortment of perches of varying diameter, to provide
- exercise, to prevent foot injuries and such ailments as sores and
- arthritis.
-
- Q. Where should the perches go?
- A. Your bird should be able to climb all over his cage, so place the
- perches accordingly. Stagger them, and make sure there's enough
- clearance for the bird to sit up comfortably. Nobody likes to bonk
- their head!
-
- Q. What can the perch be made of?
- A. Wood--the plain round ones are everywhere. There's manzanita and
- madrone, maple, and apple wood. They can be made from PVC and
- from acrylic, like Plexiglas(tm) but these should be sanded slightly
- to roughen up the otherwise slick surface. There are rope perches,
- there are even concrete perches, like Polly Perfect(tm) which help
- to keep beak and nails in trim.
-
- Q. What shape should the perch be?
- A. They range from round to flat to elliptical. Provide at least two
- different shapes. The different shapes and textures keeps muscles
- healthy, nails trimmed and prevents sores on the feet.
-
- Q. What about those sandpaper perches?
- A. Okay, but make absolutely certain the bird has another perch to sit on.
- Or only cover half the perch with the sandpaper cover.
-
- Q. Rope perches in the pet store are expensive! Can I get them elsewhere?
- A. Sure. It was posted to the net that they can be purchased at boating
- suppliers. Make sure you get all cotton-rope that hasn't been treated
- with chemicals. Ropes are great for feather-pickers, but watch out
- for fraying, and replace the rope when it gets too frizzy.
- Booda Bones(tm) makes Byrdy Cable(R) rope bird perches if you'd rather
- buy them from a pet store.
-
- Q. Can I make my own perches?
- A. Definitely. Use wood that you know is untreated, and cure it.
- Make sure there's no bugs or anything nasty like that in or on the wood.
- Cure it until it's thoroughly dried out. Leave the bark on, birds love
- to peel it off.
-
- T-stand type perches are useful aides in the training of your birds.
- We use one for the conure's "potty."
-
-
- SOURCES FOR PERCHES Manufacturers of cages will often offer perches.
- Manufacturers of toys will sometimes offer perches.
-
- Aries Manufacturing (Manzanita perches) Avian Adventures (acrylic)
- 4480 Treat Blvd. Ste. 201 P.O. Box 92136
- Concord, CA, 9421 Warren, MI, 48902-0136
- $2.00 for brochure, refunded with
- order.
-
-
- ===============================================================================
- B I R D I E T O Y S
- ===============================================================================
-
-
- As has already been mentioned, birds are playful and intelligent. A bored
- bird is a dead bird, basically. So it stands to reason that birds like--
- and need playthings.
-
- Q. What size toy do I need for my bird?
- A. Well, a big bird needs a big toy, and a small bird, a small toy.
- If you give the bird the wrong-sized toy, injury is possible.
- Most toys are labelled for small, medium, large, and extra-large
- birds.
-
- Q. What kind of toy should I buy?
- A. Depends on the bird. Some love bells, some like twirly, spinning toys,
- some like rawhide leather to chew on. Some prefer "hand-held" toys over
- those that hang from the cage. Wood is a good choice for any bird, it
- exercises the beak. Fabric is excellent for feather-pluckers. It
- all depends on your bird, and sometimes, finding the right kind of toy
- can be a hit-or-miss endeavor.
-
- Q. How many toys should the bird have?
- A. The bird should have a variety of toys, but only two or so in the cage
- at a time. Rotate the toys about every two to three weeks so the bird
- doesn't get bored.
-
- Q. My bird seems terrified of the new toy, what do I do?
- A. Some birds can be suspicious of any new thing, including toys. It seems
- that a lot of African Greys are like this. The best thing to do is to
- put the toy on the floor of the cage or playpen. When the bird starts
- poking at it and taking and interest, then try hanging it up.
-
- ***HELP! My bird HATES the twenty dollar toy I bought for it!***
- Try putting it on the floor of the cage (see previous question)
- If this doesn't work, then you're pretty much out twenty dollars.
- Taste is a personal thing, and birds definitely do have preferences.
- Don't be upset or mad at the bird if it didn't like what you picked out.
- And definitely do not stop giving your bird toys!
-
- Q. One bird chews, one bird plucks. Are there any special toys for them?
- A. For chewers, try wood toys, if they destroy that, try an acrylic, which
- will last longer. Manzanita wood is really hard, too. Try toys by
- Manzanita Munchies and Naughty Acrylics(tm). For pluckers, try rope toys,
- like Byrdy Cable(r) by Booda Bone(tm) or the Polly Dolly(tm) by Lucia.
- The Polly Dolly(tm) has lots of different colors and cloth to pick at.
-
- Q. How do I clean the toys?
- A. A mild soap and warm water will usually do the trick. Rinse and rinse
- and rinse, and then dry well.
-
- Q. What are some dangers of toys?
- A. Hanging, either by getting caught in a clip used to attach the toy,
- (avoid those metal shower curtain hangers) or by getting wrapped up
- in a leather strip, or a getting hooked in a chain.
- Fibers from rope and cloth toys can be wrapped around toes, cutting off
- circulation and resulting in the loss of a toe or even a foot.
- If the toy is shoddily made from cheap materials, it might break off,
- and parts could be ingested. Paint might be toxic. Make certain that
- the clapper in the bell cannot be pulled out and eaten. Make sure the
- bell, clapper or other metal toys do not contain lead or lead paint.
- Be careful how you attach a toy. Some birds can unscrew C-links and
- might tighten them onto a toe or their tongue. Others seem to always
- get tangled in hanging ropes or chains. If this is the case, give
- your bird a "hand-held" toy when you can't be around, and carefully
- observe playtime with hanging toys.
-
- Q. Can I use some household items for toys?
- A. Sure. Toilet paper *tubes* (not the toilet paper) seem to be resounding
- favorites, and they're cheap! Ping-pong balls are popular, along with
- ball-point pen tubes (with the ink cartridge removed) We have a
- ten-speed set up as an exercise bike in the living room, and our
- four birds love to "go biking" more than anything. Plastic measuring
- spoons and cups work well, and Josie the cockatiel loves to play with
- the plastic caps to soda bottles. But one of the best ideas has to
- come from brackney@ecn.purdue.edu (Larry J. Brackney) who writes:
-
-
- " My wife and I are firm believers in giving our birds baby toys. They
- are typically MUCH cheaper than bird toys, and generally hard to destroy.
- All of our birds love interlocking plastic toys: hearts, fish, etc. And
- you can buy them at discount and toy stores.
-
- We also have good luck getting toys at the local Goodwill. They usually
- have a bin of $0.25 baby toys (plastic doo-dads, teething rings, etc.) We
- usually pick through them, and try to pick out toys without small parts
- that can be broken and swallowed. Once home, we wash and sterilize the
- toys. "
-
- ---------
-
- SOURCES FOR TOYS: These are ones I've seen in my local pet shops.
-
-
- B is for Bird Toy Fowl Play
- 6740 William Ln 108 Charmont Dr.
- Lincoln, CA, 95648 Radford, VA, 24141
-
-
- Polly Dolly Texture Toy Thee Birdie Bordello
- P.O. Box 997 P.O. Box 2906
- Comfort, TX, 78013 El Segundo, CA, 90245
-
- ===============================================================================
- E N D O F P A R T O N E *last revised 7/6/94*
- ===============================================================================
- Archive-name: birds-faq/pets/part2
- Last-modified: 1994/7/6
- Version: 6
-
- ===============================================================================
-
- There was an old parrot of Steen,
- Its musical sense was not keen;
- People found it quite odd,
- That Polly sang "God-
- Save the Weasel" and "Pop Goes the Queen."
-
- --Unknown
- ===============================================================================
-
-
- * * * W E L C O M E T O T H E F A Q * * *
- (F)reqently (A)sked (Q)uestions regarding rec.pets.birds.
-
- P A R T II
- ===========
-
- This is a monthly posting of topics regarding birds that may prove
- useful to those new to this group or to the rewarding hobby of keeping birds.
- Or, more accurately, of your bird keeping you!
-
- This FAQ, as a collection of information, is copyrighted 1993,
- by Jodi L. Giannini, and distribution by means other than Usenet is by
- permission only. Removal of this copyright notice is not permitted.
-
- Part 2 covers Diet and feeding; Taming and training; Travel with birds;
- Finding an avian vet; Health; Hazards; and First Aid.
-
- Part 3 covers Birds and Lung Cancer.
-
- Part 4 lists various Veterinarians throughout the country.
-
- Species specific Faq's cover the named species: Poicephalus, Greys,
- Macaws (there are separate faq's for the large and 'mini' macaws), Lories
- and Lorikeets.
-
- Topics that are covered in Part 1 are: Bird magazines, books, and the like;
- Basic bird terminology; Choosing/Buying a bird; Cages, perches and Bird toys.
-
-
-
-
- ===============================================================================
- F E E D I N G - D I E T - T R E A T S
- ===============================================================================
-
-
- Q. What can I feed my bird?
- A. For hookbill, a pelleted diet is a good choice, with seeds as a treat.
- Finches and canaries are naturally seedeaters, but should have greenfood
- as well. Finches also do well to have some live food occasionally.
- Some canaries (red-factors) need color food which is high
- in beta-carotene or uses an artifical coloring to maintain their red.
- Lories and other brushtongued parrots eat a special nectar. Toucans and
- Toucanettes need a diet low in iron and will eat livefood. You can feed
- your bird just about anything that is good for you, but birds seem
- to have a tendency towards vitamin A deficiency, so keep this in mind.
- Birds can eat fruits, veggies, low-fat yogurt, an occasional bit of
- cheese, lean meat--chicken and turkey are good, cereals like corn flakes
- or crisped rice, whitefish. An occasional nut is fine, but be careful as
- nuts are very fatty and peanuts which are moldy can give a bird
- aspergilliosis. Basically it seems anything that is good for you is good
- for your bird. There is raging debate over what exactly is a good diet,
- but it seems that a vet-recommended pellet diet, with a little seed,
- and a choice of fruits and veggies daily is a good ch oice. Each pellet
- in a pelleted diet has been made so that it is nutrionally complete.
- Also, there is a "pulse" diet, which is a mixture of seeds, nuts and
- various legumes (beans, etc) which is good as well. You can also
- feed your birds prepackaged diet supplements that are cooked, like
- Crazy Corn (tm). Most birds love stuff like that.
-
- Q. Okay, then, what CAN'T my bird eat?
- A. Chocolate, Alcohol, Avocado, Rhubarb and Caffiene are toxic to your birds.
- Never feed them to your bird. Some seeds and pits are also toxic, but
- seeds from melons are okay. Foods that are high in fat, salt and
- sugar are no-no's too.
-
- Q. What functions are vitamins and minerals needed for? What are symptoms
- of deficiency? What foods provide these necessary dietary components?
- A. Birds are just like people, vitamins and minerals, along with trace
- elements are required for growth and maintenance of homeostasis
- (regulation of body). A balanced diet will provide the nutrition needed.
- For charts and information in detail about avian vitamin needs, check
- books or get a copy of December 1992 Bird Talk Magazine. It features an
- article by Tom Roudybush, who developed Roudybush feeds.
-
- Q. Does my bird require a special diet/supplements?
- A. Certain species need special diets. For example, Lories live on nectar.
- African Greys are susceptible to Calcium deficiency, which leads to
- seizures. Birds which are molting need more protein. Breeding and
- brooding birds need a boosted diet too. Sick birds may require a
- diet different from the usual. Consult your vet.
-
- Q. Do I have to feed my bird live food?
- A. Live food--crickets, grubs, worms, pinky mice (hairless babies) are
- good sources of protein for breeding and brooding birds and pets.
- You can get them from pet stores or mail-order. Your bird may refuse
- to eat them.
-
- Q. Do I need to use a vitamin supplement?
- A. A balanced diet is always better than a poor one supplemented with
- vitamins, but there may be a case when your bird will need them.
- ---------
- This is a summary/commentary of dietary supplements. It has been
- graciously contributed by Kelly Flynn (kelly@cco.caltech.edu).
-
- I've been spending a lot of time reading and talking to people about
- diet recently, because I want to make the best choices I can. We
- really don't know much about avian nutrition (heck, we can't figure out
- human nutrition)! I think the least we could do is to keep an open mind.
-
- BENE-BAC (for birds)
-
- After reading a post about Bene-Bac, I went ahead and called up
- PetAg (1-800-323-0877) and asked them to send me some information
- about the product. The woman I spoke to was very nice and said they
- would send a sample. When I received the information, I found they
- were kind enough to include a 15 gram tube of Bene-Bac (good for
- about 15 applications for a large bird!) and a 1oz package of their
- powder (which i didn't know existed.) Their material states the
- following:
-
- Bene-Bac offers:
-
- A concentrated live culture of five common digestive bacteria found
- in the intestinal tracts of birds. A guaranteed 10 million colony
- forming units (CFU) per gram of viable lactic acid producing bacteria.
- A concentrated energy source. Help for birds and reptiles under
- adverse conditions such as: showing, breeding, traveling, worming,
- surgery, weaning, boarding, antibiotic therapy, simple intestinal stress.
-
- Bene-Bac is a palatable gel in an easy to use syringe (My finicky Macaw
- *loves* the taste of the gel).
-
- Bene-Bac is recommended as part of the management program for birds
- when hand feeding or weaning from handfeeding. Use with growing or
- mature birds when they are subject to changing nutritional or to
- environmental conditions or after antibiotic therapy. If diarrhea or
- anorexia (loss of appetite) persists, contact your veterinarian.
- Bene-Bac is recommended as part of a normal maintenance program.
-
- GEL INGREDIENTS:
- Dried Lactobacillus fermentum, dried L. casei (avian strain), dried
- Streptococcus faecium, L. plantarum and L. acidophilus fermentation
- products, vegetable oils, sugar, silicon dioxide, artificial color,
- polysorbate 80 preserved with TBHQ and ethoxyquin.
-
- POWDER INGREDIENTS:
- Dextrose, maltodextrin, dried Lactobacillus fermentum, dried
- L. casei (avian strain,) dried Streptococcus faecium,
- dried L. plantarum and dried L. acidophilus fermentation products.
-
-
- Finally, I've been reading more about supplying beneficial bacteria
- to birds under stress. There definitely seems to be studies which
- support that parent delivered (regurgitated) food encourages faster
- chick growth (when compaired to hand feeding). Many people also
- feel that the parents' supply of beneficial bacteria helps encourage a
- healthier chick with faster growth. However, studies also show that
- the bacteria work best if species specific. In other words, its
- very questionable if Lactobacillus strains for humans (commonly
- found in yogurt,) are as good for birds as avian strains (like
- found in Bene-Bac or AviGuard by Pet Med Tech.) Even better would
- be strains from a Scarlet Macaw for other Scarlet Macaws or ideally,
- from a parent bird (if this is to be used for handfeeding,) of the
- chick. Avian specific strains can be established in the gut of a
- bird more readily than other strains.
- If you have further questions about this product, I urge you to call
- PetAg at the number listed in the beginning of this section.
-
- SPIRULINA: This is what harrison's puts in their pellets, and it's high in
- beta carotene and amino acids. It's expensive, 100 grams cost $15, at a
- recommended rate of 1% of the diet. I'm guesstimating this is 1/8 to
- a 1/4 of a teaspoon per portion of soft food. My brand is 'Bright and
- Healthy' by Earthrise.
-
- LACTOBACILLUS ACIDOPHILUS: I'm hoping it will help up the weight of a low weight
- bird who is slightly stressed by a recent move. My label ('Aviguard'
- by Pet Med Tech "contains 3 avian strains of stabilized L.a. in a
- lactose base, store in a cool dry place or refrigerate") suggests
- a dose of 1/4 teaspoon of L.a. per 1 cup of formula and to use the
- treated formula for 4 consecutive days and repeat for 2 consecutive
- days every other week until weaned. For dry dosing, 1/4 teaspoon on
- moist food sufficient to feed 1-3 birds. Treat for four consecutive
- days. It also has an expiration date. $17 for 2 ounces.
-
- AVIA (For Birds by Nutra-vet Research Corp.): This has
- a nice range of vitamins, minerals *and* amino acids. Dosage for a
- macaw is 1/2 - 3/4 teaspoon per portion of food, once a day. It was
- recommended by a friend who I respect and trust, and once I started
- comparing it to other vitamins, it just seemed more complete.
- Unlike several other brands, which I had noticed contained
- preservatives, Avia does not use artificial means of extending the
- product's shelf life. Also, there are no ils or lecithin in this
- formula. This is very important, in that these additives can
- promote spoilage and alter the nutrition content.
- I like the fact that this is put on food, since I feel the vitamins are
- best absorbed when food is being digested, instead of taking them on an
- empty tummy, it is also better than giving the vitamins alone or
- using the vitamins in the bird's drinking water. Vitamins in water
- become inactive quickly and also can encourage bacterial growth in the
- water. Many birds don't like the colored or funny tasting water,
- or will not accept them in water. $5 for 2 ounces.
-
- SUPER PREEN: This is a dry powder, which is to be sprinkled on moist foods.
- More information to follow.
-
- PRIME: No information available at this point.
-
- PROPER STORAGE AND ADMINSTRATION OF SUPPLEMENTS:
- One thing that I noticed about supplements and packagings is that
- the Spirulina and Avia are sold in opaque containers. This
- is desirable, since sunlight and heat will breakdown vitamins rapidly.
- To prevent further breakdown of nutrients, store the supplements in a
- cool, dark place. I wish *all* supplements had expiration dates,
- since I worry about the effectiveness of something that has sat on
- the shelf for a while. Perhaps buying direct from the company would help
- insure freshness. I also like getting small containers that which are
- sealed, and can be resealed. The small containers enable me to use the
- product, and not let it sit on the shelf, so I can buy more fresh
- as soon as I run out.
- As for applying them, you want to follow directions on the label. The
- vitamin coating should be *very* light, and even starting with lower
- than recommended amounts might be a good idea if your bird is picky
- over the slightest change in diet. More will NOT be better, and could
- hurt your bird. Also be careful if you're feeding a pelleted diet
- which very likely already has vitamins included.
- Do not try to give your bird a number of supplements all at once.
- Try to concentrate on one particular supplement, then perhaps
- alternate the other supplements with it. I have also discussed my
- supplemental plan with my veterinarian, who believes that it will,
- in the very least, prove helpful. I suggest that you do the same.
- No doubt the vet will have at least one insight into your supplemental
- plan.
-
- ----------
-
-
- Q. Does my bird need grit?
- A. Welcome to the great grit gridlock. Everybody has a different opinion
- on this issue. The current opinion is that birds that eat mostly soft
- food and fruits don't need grit; a bird which eats mostly dry seeds will
- need grit. However, some people don't even give grit to birds which
- supposedly "need" grit. They claim that it makes the bird lose weight.
- There is also the danger of crop impaction when a bird is given grit.
- Birds kept in aviaries with dirt floors will pick granules off the ground,
- so it is not necessary to provide grit to them. If you do feel your bird
- may need grit, try to get a soluble kind, as it will eventually dissolve
- out of the bird's crop and in doing so will provide calcium and other such
- minerals. Oyster shell grit is ideal. A bird will only need a few
- grains of grit.
-
-
- Q. What can I give my bird as a treat?
- A. An occasional treat or reward is a nice thing for a bird. It might
- be a bit of favorite fruit/veggie. Cheese, a commerically prepared birdie
- treat, a spray of millet, a bit of people food (Sammy conure gets
- a teeny, teeny bit of pizza when we order one) a nut is a nice treat
- too, and it's fun to play with. Remember, if the treat seems miniscule
- to you, recall that you are much bigger than your bird, so adjust the
- serving accordingly.
-
- ***HELP! My bird won't eat anything but seeds! What do I do?!***
- Be patient. Some birds will just refuse to eat pellets outright.
- There's nothing to be done in a case like that. There are various
- opinions on how to convert a seed-eater to pellets. Cockatiels are
- notably the most stubborn. The process can take anywhere from two
- weeks to two years. You begin by mixing in some pellets with the seed
- and gradually, decreasing the amount of seed and increasing the
- pellets. Veggies and fruits have to be presented daily. Some birds
- will not eat sliced carrots, but will eat them shredded or whole. Keep
- this in mind when serving the bird. It may like its apple quartered
- instead of sliced. Experiment. Birds like things that are fun to eat.
- Peas in a pod, whole beans, melon is good, and birds love the seeds.
- Broccoli seems to be widely and nearly immediately accepted. Try
- skewering a fruit or veggie, and then not only is it food, but a toy!
- Keep trying. Some people just take away the seed all at once, and
- let the birds get hungry enough until they break down and eat the
- pellets. But you have to be careful, some birds would rather starve than
- try something new, or it might be that they are unable to recognize
- the pellets as "food" because it doesn't fit their picture of "food"
- (seeds). In such a case, watch for all-black droppings, it means the bird
- is starving to death. You may have to try different brands of pellets as
- well. Patience is the key to this, and well worth it. It helps the birds
- to lead healthier--and fuller, more active lives.
-
-
- SOURCES FOR PELLETED DIETS:
- *Note: According to several netters, (actually their vets) the general opinion
- seems to be that Pretty Bird diets are terrible, and Purina is even worse. But
- this is all opinion.
-
- Lafeber Company Lake's Ultimate Avian Diet
- BT7 92 RR#2 639 Stryker Avenue
- Odell, IL, 60460 St. Paul, MN, 55107
- 1-800-842-6445 1-800-634-2473
-
- Roudybush Feeds Scenic Bird Foods
- P.O. Box 908 Marion Zoological Inc.
- Templeton, CA, 93564 113 N. First P.O. Box 212
- 1-800-326-1726 Marion, KS, 66861
- (Avialable only through
- Veterinarians, and certain
- dealers)
-
-
- Harrison's Bird Foods
- c/o HBD Inc
- 1830 F Street
- Pawnee City, NE, 68420
- 1-800-346-0269
-
-
- SOURCES FOR COOKED SUPPLEMENTS
-
- Crazy Corn Flights of Fancy
- 13330 Bessemer Street 1594 Hilltop Drive
- Van Nuys, CA, 91491 El Cajon, CA, 92020-8227
- 1-800-BIRD-YUM (1-800-247-3986) 1-800-776-MEAL (1-800-776-6325)
-
-
- SOURCES FOR LIVE FOOD
-
- Grubco Rainbow Mealworms
- P.O. Box 15001 126 E. Spruce Street
- Hamilton, OH, 45015 P.O. Box 4907
- 1-800-222-3563 Compton, CA, 90224
- 1-213-635-1494 for
- inquiries, information.
- 1-800-777-9677 (orders)
-
-
- ===============================================================================
- T R A I N G - T A M I N G - T R I C K S - P L A Y I N G
- ===============================================================================
-
-
-
- ==TAMING/TRAINING==
-
- Q. How soon do I begin?
- A. Right away!
-
- Q. What supplies do I need?
- A. A T-stand, a perch, a towel may be necessary, an area free from
- distraction, a positive attitude, and lots and lots of patience.
-
- Q. Does clipping my bird's wings help in training?
- A. Yes, it does. Not only that, it's a good saftey measure.
- If you take the time, it is possible to do a clip that really isn't
- visible and looks pretty good. Wing clipping is painless, and
- the bird isn't going to hate you for it. (see HEALTH section)
-
- Q. Okay, I have what I need, now what?
- A. Establish a routine, and stick to it! Birds are creatures of routine,
- and one that is consistent will help the bird feel more secure.
- Establish taming/training time, say, for an hour every day at two.
- Then just do it! Every day.
-
- Q. But I have a hand-fed baby bird, not an older, untame bird. Do
- I really need to "tame" it?
- A. You will need to train the bird to respond to an up command, and
- learn to stay on its perch when you put it there. Hand-fed babies
- are naturally friendly and tame, but they need discipline and rules
- too!
-
- Q. What's the UP command?
- A. The UP command is a rule for your bird. When you say UP, the bird
- knows it is to step on the perch or hand/arm you are offering it.
- The DOWN command is used when setting the bird down.
- --TO TEACH THE UP/DOWN COMMAND--
- Take your bird to the training area. Put the bird on its t-stand.
- Now, take your finger,hand, or arm (or use a dowel/perch) and press
- it against the bird's legs. The bird will then step up onto the perch.
- As the bird steps up, say "<bird's name> Up!" Praise the bird. Place
- the bird back on the t-stand, say "<name> Down!". Repeat this. It
- seems that most birds can learn this in about fifteen minutes, but
- results and birds vary. Always be patient, and no matter what
- happens with training, never, ever hit your bird. Being patient,
- gentle and most of all consistent, are the best things you can do.
-
- Q. My bird is stick trained, but *hates* to perch on my finger or hand.
- What do I do about this?
- A. You have two choices, one using the perch, and the other using
- a training towel. Holding the stick on which the bird is perched,
- slowly tip one end of the perch up, so that it's higher than the other.
- A bird will instinctively go to the highest perch, and this would be
- your hand. Drop the perch away once the bird is on your hand. The bird
- might jump off when it feels the skin of your hand. Then there is the
- training towel. Get a neutral colored towel (white, beige, etc).
- Put the towel on the floor, and the bird on the towel. Gradually bring
- the corners of the towel up until the bird is enclosed. This may take
- a while, a week or two, or maybe even just ten minutes. If it gets
- to the point where your bird is calm about this, reach under the towel,
- and place the bird's feet on your finger/hand/arm. Once the bird is
- perching, drop the towel's sides down. The bird may stay on or hop off.
- Keep working until you get results. Once again, be consistent and
- patient.
-
- Q. I'd like to teach my bird to talk. How do I do that?
- A. Some breeds talk better than others, and even that can vary by
- individuals. Greys are supposed to be the best talkers.
- Start with something simple like "Hello" and just repeat it to the bird.
- Once again, consistency and patience is the key. Once the bird picks
- up a few simple words, it may very well start learning on its own.
- There are also CD's and tapes with phrases on them. It's a good idea to
- teach your bird its phone number and address in case it escapes or gets
- stolen.
-
- Q. Can I teach my bird to be quiet?
- A. All birds need some time to mouth off, but constant screaming is a
- problem. But you simply cannot punish a bird for doing what comes
- naturally. First, think about when the bird screams. Is it in
- the morning and at night? This is normal and natural. Is the bird
- near a loud TV or stereo or a window that has bustle and hustle going
- on outside? Or is the bird in place where it can hear but not see
- things that are going on around it? Did you forget to feed the bird?
- Did you forget to water the bird? I'd scream too, if I was
- hungry! Try moving the cage. Never yell at the bird, this is
- a reward of sorts for it. If the bird is screaming in its cage,
- try covering it for about five minutes. It should quiet down. Remove
- the bird when it's quiet. Try to provide more toys for the bird
- if left alone frequently. Reinforce *positive* behavior. This can be
- hard to do...we're more inclined to notice bad behavior than good.
- Each bird is unique and may require a different approach to remedy
- its screaming. You can consult with a animal behaviorist to help
- in really bad cases.
-
- Q. Can I teach my bird tricks?
- A. Yes. Once again, ability and inclination varies by individuals.
- Cockatoos seem to be the best at physical tricks. Tricks are taught
- by gradual conditioning towards the desired behavior. There are
- books and videos on how to teach a bird to perform tricks. One
- such book is published by Parrot Mountain.
-
- Parrot Mountain Handbook
- (potty training, tricks, etc)
- $7.95 and $3.00 shipping and handling (U.S.)
- $4.00 shipping and handling to Canada
- P.O. Box 2037
- Ocean, NJ, 00712
- 1-800-362-8183
-
-
- Q. I'd like to potty train my bird. How do I do that?
- A. Keep in mind that a bird flies, and in order to do that, it must
- stay as light as possible. So the bird just unloads its ballast
- whenever it feels the urge. I can speak from experience that our
- conure goes every 10-15 minutes, although now he's started to hold
- it till we get him on his potty. What I did was get a t-stand and
- designate it as his potty. It's small with a wide base for catching
- the Birdie Bombs(tm) :) and it's portable. You can designate a
- pile of papers or the cage, or whatever is acceptable to you. I simply
- would put Sammy on his potty and say "Poop!" until he did. Then he
- was praised, and taken off the perch. Every 10 minutes or so
- I would repeat this. Sammy had perfected his bombing within three
- days. We rarely have accidents. I can hold him over a paper or in
- his cage and say "Poop!" and he will. You can choose whatever key word
- you like best, as long as it's not too common, which may confuse the
- bird if it hears its cue in normal conversations. Some birds
- potty train themselves. Some, unfortunately, do this using their water
- bowls and thus make poop soup. Apparently Quaker Parakeets are known
- for this. For a chronic soup maker, you may want to get a tube
- waterer, like the kind used for hamsters.
-
- ***He--OUCH!--Help! My bird bites! How do I stop it!?"
- Birds will bite for three reasons; they will bite out of fear, they
- will bite because they are excited or even just because they're feelin'
- good and are being high-spirited, and they will bite out of malice--
- biting for the sake of biting.
-
- Birds that bite for the sake of chomping might be better off as a
- breeder. Any bird will bite, and justly so--if it's frightened.
- Birds go through a nippy stage when they hit puberty. They're trying to
- establish their position in the social order. This is natural. You
- should give an "Up!" command in a firm voice when this happens. It
- reminds the parrot just who is in charge of the flock.
-
- Keep in mind that a tongue to a baby bird is like fingers to a two year
- old human. The tongue is tactile and the bird uses it to explore its
- world. Never jerk your hand away from a bird that's exploring, it may
- get frightened and bite you. An "Ouch!" is okay, if the the bird "beaks"
- you a little too hard. The "Ouch!" will help the bird to understand
- your limits (and its limits!) But never yell, hit, or be dramatic,
- even though your fingers--and feelings may be hurt. Such behavior can
- be a drama award and it's exciting for the bird to get a rise from you.
-
- Don't put the bird in its cage either, should it bite. This only
- reinforces territoriality about the bird's cage, and the parrot will
- quickly equate bite = back to cage. The bird will then bite whenever
- and however often it feels like going back to its cage.
-
- A good bite correction is a wobble. If the bird is perched on
- your hand, and bites, drop your hand quickly. The bird loses it's
- balance and has to release the bite. This is unpleasant (imagine
- the floor dropping out from under you unexpectedly.) but effective.
- The bird soon learns to associate "bite = wobble", and will stop
- biting when on a hand.
-
- You would be very surprised how gentle birds are once they understand
- your limits, even the bigger birds. I once had an opportunity to
- handle a Blue and Gold Macaw (Ara ararauna). These birds can bite hard
- enough to break a broom handle(!). The breeder of the bird had
- obviously spent a great deal of time and patience with the young
- bird, as it took my index finger in its beak and explored it very
- gently, never once bearing down hard enough to be even slightly
- uncomfortable. Such a tame and well-trained bird is a pleasure.
-
-
- ==PLAYING==
-
- Play is an important part of your bird's daily activities and it's fun
- to do things with your bird. This can range from watching TV together
- to sailing, to games, to listening to music together. A bird is most
- happy when it can be part of the family and part of the action. Also,
- a certain amount of *independent* playtime--where the bird is
- responsible for amusing itself--is necessary, whether you are at home
- or not. Make certain your bird has few safe, fun and interesting toys
- to amuse itself with. This independent time keeps the bird mentally
- healthy and gives you a break too.
-
-
- ===============================================================================
- T R A V E L L I N G - W I T H - B I R D S
- ===============================================================================
-
-
- Q. Can I travel with my bird?
- A. If your bird is not stressed by new places and situations, yes.
- Make sure to call ahead to confirm that hotels will take birds.
- Also talk to your vet if you'll be crossing state lines, you may
- need a certificate of health and perhaps other papers.
-
- Q. What's the best way to transport my bird?
- A. In a sturdy container. It's a terrible idea to let the bird ride
- on your shoulder or be loose in the car. Should the bird spook,
- it could endanger everybody.
-
- Q. What about carsickness? Do birds get it?
- A. Yes, with the same symptoms as people. They get sick and vomit, act
- listless and may lose their appetite. Not feeding the bird and covering
- the cage will help ease this. The sickness may even be due to nerves.
- Once again, your vet can help you.
-
- Q. Should I acclimate my bird to travelling in the car?
- A. If the bird seems apprehensive about it, yes. Do this gradually,
- perhaps beginning with the carrier. Let the bird have enough time
- to get used to it. Leave it open in the play area and let the bird
- poke around in it. Take the bird out to the car. Sit in it for a while.
- Don't run the car, just sit in there, and praise the bird. Work up to
- where the bird feels comfortable. Then try running the car. Work up to
- comfort again. Then try short drives. Then longer. And then pretty
- soon the bird will be able to drive the car by itself.
-
- Q. What should I bring when travelling?
- A. A first aid kit (just in case) food, treats, bottled water or water from
- home, strange water may cause health problems. A few favorite toys, and
- of course, your bird!
-
- Q. What if my bird can't deal with travelling?
- A. You can have a family member or a friend come in and feed and socialize
- with your bird or you can hire a pet-sitter. You can also board your
- bird with someone, but doing so at a pet-shop may prove too stressful
- for the bird, and it could catch something from other birds at the shop.
- Boarders and pet-sitters are listed in the yellow-pages. Get references
- and make sure that the person or company is bonded. Try to get the
- pet-sitter to come over and meet your bird and show the sitter how to
- prepare the bird's meals. Give the sitter a chance to play with the
- bird, if possible. Leave a sheet with written instructions and the
- number of your vet and where you can be contacted if any problems occur.
-
-
- ===============================================================================
- V E T S - H E A L T H - H A Z A R D S - F I R S T A I D
- ===============================================================================
-
-
- ==FINDING AN AVIAN VET==
-
- A vet plays an integral part in the life of you and your bird. S/he can
- offer advice, options, information, and of course, medicinal care! Before
- you even buy a bird, make sure you have a vet.
-
- Q. Where can I find an avian vet?
- A. Try looking in the yellow pages, asking a breeder or another friend
- for a recommendation.
-
- Q. What do I look for when I go to check out the vet?
- A. A number of things: Is the office clean and does it have proper
- equipment? Look for or ask to see bird-related equipment like
- an incubator, special bird syringes--to administer small doses,
- opthalmic equipment--for surgery and for sexing, perhaps a laser
- if the office is advanced enough. Ask for a tour when it's convenient
- for the doctor and the staff! Most vets will gladly do this--they're
- usually very proud of what they can offer to their avian patients.
- Do you like the doctor's manner and personality? Are you encouraged
- to and do you feel comfortable asking questions? Does the doctor take
- the time to explain things? Will the doctor refer you to a specialist
- if this is what the bird needs? Can--and will the doctor admit when
- s/he doesn't know? Are the fees and rates explained to you? Do the
- costs seem reasonable? Are various tests available and used? Are the
- purposes of these tests made clear to you? Are these tests needed or
- are they extraneous? Does your vet own any birds?
-
- Q. The vet I have for my dog doesn't seem to know a lot about birds.
- Will he be offended if I go to another vet?
- A. If the vet's worth their salt, no. They should always have the
- animals' best interest at hearts. If you feel very badly, continue
- to bring the dog to your regular vet, and the bird to a vet with an
- interest with birds.
-
-
- ==HEALTH==
-
-
- Q. How do I tell if my bird is sick?
- A. The best indicator would be the bird's droppings. Bright green or
- watery droppings are not a good sign. Also a sick bird will sit huddled
- and puffed up, with its eyes closed. The bird's song may change or stop
- and it may stop talking. Wheezing or sneezing or a nasal discharge is
- bad news. The bird might "pump" its tail. It may not eat or it may
- consume vast amounts of water. Observe your bird every day, that way
- when something occurs out of the ordinary, you'll notice. Also, birds
- often don't manifest signs of sickness until they're really in trouble.
- Watch for warning signs, and act on them--get that bird to a vet.
- Better safe than sorry.
-
- Q. Do I really need to clip my bird's wings?
- A. A lot of people think it's mean to clip a bird's wings. "What good
- is a bird that can't fly?" Well, it's a bird that you won't lose.
- Wing clipping is painless, like getting a haircut. The bird won't end
- up injured due to flying in the house. Clipping also keeps the bird
- from getting too smart-alecky and it is an aid in the taming process.
- Different birds require different patterns of clipping. A cockatiel
- is such a powerful flyer that usually all the primaries have to be
- trimmed. Ask your vet or breeder to show you how to do it, and then
- you can do it yourself from there. If you do it, it's actually less
- stressing for the bird, and no, the bird won't hate you. Make sure
- to check for bloodfeathers before clipping wings.
-
- Q. If I clip my bird's wings, how soon will they grow back? What if
- I pull the feathers out instead? Do they come back quicker that way?
- A. A feather that is cut, clipped, broken or bent will be replaced
- during the next molt, no matter how awful, raggedy or good it looks.
- However, if a feather is pulled out (ouch!) and as long as there is
- no damage to the follicle (the area that the feather grows from, like
- our hair follicles) the bird's body will immediately begin
- replacing the feather. This new feather, until it is mature, will
- have a blood supply to it. (see BLOODFEATHER definition in part I)
- Some people prefer to pull out wingfeathers, rather than cutting
- them, because it looks nicer. This not only hurts (imagine someone
- 'trimming' your hair by yanking out bunches), it also puts stress on
- the bird's body. Feathers are all protein, and having to
- replace many, large wingfeathers at once depletes bodily resources.
-
-
- Q. My bird's nails are overgrown. Can they be trimmed?
- A. Yes. Use either a pair of nail clippers or special bird claw scissors.
- Look for the "quick", the vein that is in the claw. You can see in it
- light colored claws as a pinkish stripe. In dark claws, you can turn
- the bird over to see the underside of the claw and the quick. You may
- want to have someone show you how to clip them first. Provide different
- perches and surfaces to keep claws in trim naturally. If you do hit the
- quick, dip the claw into some styptic powder to staunch the bleeding.
-
- Q. My bird's beak is overgrown. What do I do?
- A. An overgrown beak usually means that the bird doesn't have enough to
- gnaw on, which is how the bird keeps the beak trimmed in the wild.
- A vet or experienced breeder must trim the beak, as it is full of
- blood vessels, and a mishap could be very serious. Offer the bird
- toys to chew on or lava blocks or such to help keep the beak trimmed.
-
- Q. Does my bird need a bath?
- A. Yes! Most birds love baths, and will bathe in a dish or in the shower
- with you or like to be spritzed with a plant mister set to fine.
- It's excellent for the bird's plumage and with "dusty" birds, like
- cockatoos, helps keep down the dust. Some birds may have to be
- gradually introduced to misting, but it's a good move. You can let
- the bird dry by itself (as long as the ambient temperature in your
- house is at *least* 60 degrees Farenheit (16 Celsius) or use a
- hairdryer set on medium heat. Never put a wet bird to bed for the night.
-
- Q. Do I need to install full-spectrum lighting?
- A. It's a good idea, especially since birds really don't get enough
- sunlight in an apartment or some homes. You can get the bulbs at
- pet stores or order them directly. These bulbs are called "R" bulbs
- meaning that they cannot be used with a covered fixture. This includes
- track lighting and recessed lighting--anything with a "shade" even if
- the "shade" is made of metal. Check with the manufacturer, or get in
- touch with the local electrician. The lighting should be placed 4 to
- 8 feet away from the cage, in an ordinary light socket (no shade!)
- The light should only be hitting a portion of the cage. The bulbs
- should be used a *minimum* of 10 (ten) hours a week.
-
- Q. What about an air-filtration system?
- A. Maybe. If you find you're sensitive to the dust from your birds.
- They help reduce the dust load greatly. If you have a lot of birds,
- this is a good idea. Also, if you smoke, it would be a good idea to
- have a filtration system for the sake of your birds.
-
- Q. What about stress in my bird?
- A. The best cure for stress is prevention! Make sure the bird is healthy,
- has a good diet and isn't bored. But if this all checks out, think
- about the bird's surroundings: Did it recently get a new cage or was
- the cage moved? Did you rearrange the furniture? Change the diet?
- Remember, birds are usually suspicious of any new thing. Stress is
- serious, it's a physical reaction to mental and physical strain.
- A bird can become stressed when you go away for a long period of time,
- like a vacation. Infections can be a cause of stress--the bird is
- fighting to maintain homeostasis. Even strong perfume or even smoke
- can be a stressor. Natural processes, such as breeding or molting
- can cause stress. Of course, what may stress one bird may be of no
- consequence to another.
-
- *Help! My bird's NAKED! Why does it pluck?"
- This behavior is most common in African Greys. Plucking is usually
- brought on by stress, but sometimes skin problems can cause it.
- Parakeets sometimes will pluck their older babies, in order to get them
- out of the nest, so that they can clutch again. Cockatiels might do
- it as well. A bird may denude itself because it wants to breed, but
- cannot, as it's a pet. Sometimes, plucking is acceptable, as when a hen
- may pluck her brooding area to transfer her body heat better. Boredom
- can cause plucking. A diet that is poor can cause this behavior, too.
- Once started, it usually is a very hard habit to break, and even if
- "cured" the bird may regress back to plucking if it gets upset. Even a
- minor change may trigger plucking.
-
- Q. How do I stop the bird from plucking?
- A. First, take it to the vet to rule out any medical causes.
- Consider any changes in the bird's environment. Even little things.
- A plucker may be dissuaded from its habit by giving the bird a toy
- with rope or fabric or anything the bird can tear up. Polly Dolly (tm)
- toys are great for pluckers. There are bitter apple sprays available,
- but they usually don't work. Collars can be used, but don't ever try
- to do this without a vet's help, or the bird could get hurt.
-
- Q. Do I need to vaccinate my birds?
- A. There are pros and cons to vaccinations. The biggest drawback is that
- every bird will react differently to the same vaccination. Some birds
- become paralyzed, others blind, some die, some aren't even bothered.
- I would think that one or two domestic birds kept as pets wouldn't need
- it. Birds in a large, mixed, business aviary, maybe. I don't feel
- qualified to give advice on this one. Ask your vet. They'll be able
- to explain it to you, correctly and in depth.
-
- Q. What's a hospital cage?
- A. It's a small, enclosed cage that has a heater in it, and usually a
- humidifier. A hospital cage can be warmed up, which makes it easier
- for the sick bird to maintain its normally high body temperature. The
- humidifer helps ease respiratory problems. You can make such a cage
- by using a small aquarium, and placing a heating pad under it. Put a
- thermometer in the bottom corner where the bird will be. Put some
- bedding in there, along with food and water, and cover with towels.
- Place in a dim room. The temperature should be about 85 to 90 degrees
- Farenheit (27 to 32 degrees Celsius). If you're really in a pinch,
- place the cage, wrapped in towels, near a lightbulb.
-
-
- ==HAZARDS==
-
-
- Q. What are some common hazards?
- A. Animals (Cat and dog saliva is very hazardous to birds)
- Aquariums (Uncovered = drowning)
- Carpet (getting snagged)
- Ceiling fans
- Children (Unless they know how to handle the bird)
- Chimneys/fireplaces
- Curtains/Drapes (can get toenails caught)
- Electrical wires, fixtures.
- Feet
- Fannies
- Mirrors
- Phone cords
- Pots on the stove
- PTFE (found in Teflon, Silverstone)
- (Polytetrafluoroethylene)--given off by nonstick pans overheated
- to 536 or higher degrees Farenheit (280 or higher Celsius)-- is
- very toxic to birds, death occurs within a few minutes.
- Stovetops
- Windows
-
-
-
- Q. What are some of the common household poisons?
- A. Aerosols Insecticides Shoe Polish
- Alcohol Kerosene Suntan lotions
- Antifreeze Medicine Waxes
- Aspirin Mothballs
- Bleach Paint (Lead-based)
- Caffeine Perfume
- Cigarette smoke Pine Oil
- Deodorants Paint remover
- Dishwasher detergent Paint thinner
- Drain cleaner Rat/Mouse poison
- Gasoline Shellac
-
-
- Q. I have plants in my home. What ones are safe and what are dangerous?
- A. Tom Przybylski <przybyls@avo.hp.com> posted the following list of
- dangerous plants (taken from the October '87 Bird Talk Magazine) to
- the group:
-
- The article gives latin names as well that I did not copy in. The
- symptoms codes are: GI = gastrointestinal, CV = cardiovascular, BL =
- blood abnormalities, CNS = nervous system, IR = irritant, UR = urinary
- tract, CY = signs associated with cyanide poisoning, RE = reproductive.
- The text of the article gives more information and detail on the
- symptoms.
-
- All or part of the listed plant may be deemed hazardous.
-
- COMMON NAME SYMPTOMS
- ------------------------------------------------
- Autumn crocus or Meadow saffron GI
- Avocado GI
-
- Azelea GI
- Baneberry GI
- Beans:
-
- Castor GI
- Horse, Fava, Broad Java BL
- Glory, Scarlet Runner CY
- Mescal CNS
- Rosary peas, Ind. Licorice GI
-
- Bird of Paradise GI
- Bleeding Heart or Dutchman's Breeches CNS
- Bloodroot GI
- Boxwood GI
- Bracken Fern BL
- Buckthorn GI
- Bulb Flowers:
- Amaryllis GI
- Daffodil, Narcissus GI
- Hyacinth GI
- Iris GI
-
- Caladium IR
- Calla Lily IR
- Cardinal Flower CNS
- Chalice or Trumpet Vine GI
- Cherry Tree CNS
- Chinaberry Tree CNS
- Christmas Candle or Rose GI
- Clematis or Virginia Bower CNS
- Coral Plant GI
- Cowslip, Marsh Marigold CNS
-
- Daphne GI
- Death Camas CNS
- Dieffenbachia, or Dumb Cane IR
-
- Elderberry CNS
- Elephants Ear or Taro IR
- Eucalyptus Tree - not dried, dyed,
- treated CY*
- Euonymus or Spindle Tree GI
-
- False Hellebore CV
- Firethorn, Pyracantha IR*
- Four O'Clock GI
- Foxglove CV
-
- Golden Chain CNS
- Grass: Johnson, Sorghum, Sudan,
- Broomcorn CY
- Ground Cherry GI
-
- Hemlock:
- Poison CNS
- Water CNS
- Henbane CNS
- Holly GI
- Honeysuckle GI*
- Horsechestnut or Buckeye GI
- Horsetail CNS
- Hydrangea CNS
-
- Ivy, English, varieties GI*
-
- Jack-in-the-Pulpit or Ind. Turnip IR
- Jasmine GI, CNS
- Jimson Weed or Thornapple CNS
-
- Kentucky Coffee Tree CNS
-
- Lantana CNS
- Larkspur CV
- Lily-of-the-Valley CV
- Locusts:
- Black GI
- Honey RE
- Lord and Ladies or cuckoopint GI
- Lupines or Bluebonnet CNS
-
- Marijuana or Hemp CNS
- Mayapple, Mandrake GI
- Mistletoe GI
- Mock Orange GI, CNS
- Monkshood, Aconite CV
- Moonseed CNS
- Morning Glory CNS
- Mushrooms - Amanita, others GI, CNS
-
- Nettles CNS, CV
- Nightshades: Deadly, Black, Garden,
- Woody, Bittersweet, Eggplant,
- Jerusalem Cherry, Potato shoots GI, CNS
-
- Oaks GI
- Oleander CV
-
- Periwinkle CNS
- Philodendrons: var. Split Leaf, Swiss
- Cheese IR*
- Pigweed BL
- Poinsetta IR*
- Poison Ivy IR
- Poison Oak: Western, Eastern IR
- Pokeweed or Inkberry GI
- Privet GI
-
- Rain Tree GI
- Ranunculus, Buttercup CNS
- Red Maple GI
- Rhubarb leaves UR
- Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Laurels GI
-
- Sandbox Tree GI
- Skunk Cabbage IR
- Sorrel, Dock CNS
- Snowdrop GI
- Spurges: GI, IR
- Pencil Tree
- Snow on the Mountain
- Candelabra Tree
- Crown of Thorns
- Sweet Pea and related peas CNS
-
- Tansy Ragwort CNS
- Tobacco, Tree Tobacco CNS
-
- Vetch CY
- Virginia Creeper GI
-
- Wisteria GI
-
- Yews CV, GI
- Yellow Jasmine CNS
-
- * These plants have been used in aviaries without reported problems
- and may be considered of questionable hazard to birds.
-
- -----
- Q. I'm worried about my bird getting stolen. What can I do?
- A. Your best bet is not to tell people the worth of your birds. If you
- have to transport them, do so in a covered carrier and tell them
- you have a canary. If you have a big bird, you might want to lock it in
- in the cage and keep the keys with you. I doubt a crook will try to
- make off with a 215 pound wrought-iron cage just because the bird's
- locked inside of it. Teach your bird your name, address and phone number.
- If you have a lot of birds, invest in an alarm system. Don't put
- the bird in a window where people can look in and see it. If you
- have a very rare, expensive or just much-loved bird, consider having
- a transponder planted in its chest. It's painless and effective.
-
- Q. How can I make sure that I can postively identify my bird should it
- be stolen? (Heaven forbid!)
- A. Teach your bird your full name, address and phone number if at all
- possible. Keep your receipt, which should have the bird's band number
- on it. The thief will, in all likelihood cut off the band, though.
- Make an audiotape of the bird speaking, especially if it says something
- that's unique. Make a videotape of the bird, if it does tricks.
- Take photographs of feet and beak, they're just like fingerprints,
- each unique. With Macaws, the feather lines on the facial patch are
- good identification. All these lines vary slightly from bird to bird.
- Photograph any unusual physical features, like scars or marks or
- missing toes and the like. You can get the bird tattooed with an I.D.
- number, but bird skin is thin, and doesn't hold the tattoo well. It
- fades quickly and has to be retouched every so often. It also is very
- stressing for the bird. Transponders are effective, painless and
- undetectable.
-
-
- Q. Is there such thing as bird insurance?
- A. Yes, there is. You may be able to get additional coverage from
- your company, but usually not. The loss of a bird will not be covered
- by your homeowner/rental policy, either. However, there is a company
- called Avi-Care that has a standard policy which provides coverage
- against theft and death. Premiums begin at 9.5% of the bird's market
- value. There is also an optional veterinary coverage at additional
- cost. For futher information call or write to:
-
- Complete Equity Markets, Inc.
- Avicare Divison
- 1098 South Milwaukee Avenue
- Wheeling, IL, 60090-6398
- 1-800-323-6234
-
-
- ===============================================================================
- F I R S T A I D
- ===============================================================================
-
- ==AVIAN AID==
-
- *Note: ALL the A's in this section are what to do right then and there.
- Should the situation be serious, get to the vet, who will perform "Second aid"
- First aid is just to hold the bird over 'till the vet visit. IT IS NOT A CURE.
-
- Q. Can I buy complete bird first aid kits?
- A. Yes, you can!
-
- Exotic Bird Care Thief Of Hearts
- Bird Aid First Aid Kit
- 7514 Charmant Drive #923 421 N. Glenn
- San Diego, CA, 92122 Wichita, KS, 67203
- 1-619-793-2473 1-316-267-1656
- $14.95 plus $2.00 s/h $39.95 (loaded with stuff!)
- CA residents add 7.75% tax
-
- Q. I would like to put together my own kit. What should be in it?
- A. First get a toolbox to put everything in. Then you should get:
- Tweezers, scissors, clippers, long needlenosed pliers or a hemostat
- to remove broken bloodfeathers (hemostats can be purchased at RadioShack
- in the tool section), Styptic *powder* (pencils are too hard), Bird
- towel, masking tape or other tape that won't ruin feathers, rubbing
- alcohol (but don't use on head or vent), gauze and gauze sponges for
- cleansing wounds, Q-tips, Betadine scrub for washing feet, hydrogen
- peroxide, syringes for handfeeding a sick bird, and baggies for
- stool samples or storing a sample of poisons or other substances the
- bird may have ingested. Find a booklet of first aid procedures and put
- that in there as well!
-
-
- Q. What shouldn't I do to the bird?
- A. Never use oils or lotions which contain oils on your bird. They gunk
- up the feathers, and ruin their insulating properties. This means a
- chilled bird. Never wait out a cat bite--those require immediate
- veterinary attention--a bird can die within two days because a cat's
- mouth is so filthy and full of bacteria. Don't bother with over-the-
- counter medication. It really doesn't work, and in some cases, may
- upset the delicate bacterial balance in the bird's body, or even worsen
- the situation. Never try to treat a fracture at home.
-
- Q. My bird is healthy. I don't need to go to a vet, do I?
- A. Schedule a "well-bird" checkup. Prevention is the best medicine.
- Even though the bird might appear outwardly healthy, it may have a
- low-grade infection or something not so readily apparent. Your bird's
- health and your peace of mind will be worth it.
-
- Q. My bird's leg is being rubbed raw by the leg band. Can I take it off?
- A. No. Don't attempt this, especially if the leg is broken or swollen.
- The vet will be able to remove the band, and deal with whatever injury
- maybe lurking under the banded area.
-
- Q. How do I pull a broken bloodfeather?
- A. This is probably the most common mishap. The remedy is simple--yank!
- It's most easily done with two people. One to restrain the bird and the
- other to pull the feather. Use a plier, or a hemostat. Tweezers won't
- work on primaries. Make certain that the wing bones are firmly
- supported or you can break the wing. Clamp onto the feather and give a
- sharp tug in the direction of the feather. The feather will come out.
- Next, apply gentle, direct pressure to the follicle where the feather
- was to stop the bleeding. Dab some styptic powder on it, as it will
- help stop the bleeding as well. Let the bird rest. Ask your vet
- or breeder to demonstrate exactly how to pull a bloodfeather if you're
- apprehensive about doing it.
-
- Q. My bird has broken its wing, what now?
- A. Get thee to a vet! But take precautions to immobilize the wing. Using
- butcher, drafting, or masking tape (which isn't too sticky) tape the
- wing gently to the body.
-
- Q. My bird can't lay her eggs. What can I do to help?
- A. Put her in a hospital cage, and keep her warm. Sometimes this is all
- it takes. Never try to expell the egg yourself, it may break, and then
- the bird may get an infection. Call the vet, just in case. When the
- egg is stuck, the bird cannot relieve itself, and toxins build up.
-
- Q. What can I do for a burn?
- A. Rinse with lots and lots of cool water. A burn is a very serious injury
- because they are so prone to infection.
-
- Q. My sick bird isn't eating!
- A. Even eating treat foods is better than not eating at all. Try a hand-
- feeding formula if all else fails.
-
- Q. My bird is wheezing, what could this mean?
- A. The bird may have inhaled a seed hull or a bit of pellet. This is very
- serious. Also, the bird may have air-sac mites (Gouldian Finches are
- prone to these) or an infection. All these require vet care.
-
- Q. I feel like this is all my fault, why did this happen?
- A. Even with the best of intent and cautions, mishaps occur. That's exactly
- why they're called accidents.
-
-
- ==AVIAN DEATH==
-
- When you have a pet bird or a number of pet birds or an aviary, and a
- bird in your flock dies, you should have a necropsy done. A necropsy is
- simply a post-mortem dissection and perhaps some tests to determine what
- the bird died of. This is especially important if the bird died of a
- contagious disease. Most vets charge the cost of an office visit for a
- necropsy, more tests would be an additional cost.
-
- How the body will be prepared for the necropsy is dependent upon the
- condition you find the bird in.
- 1. Immediately call your vet, who will advise you on exactly what
- they want done to the corpse.
- 2. If you cannot reach your vet, and the body of the bird is warm:
-
- a. Take the corpse and run cool water over it, especially
- wetting down the area under the wings, where a lot of
- heat is concentrated. This cools the body.
-
- b. Dry the body carefully, noting any damage (bites, etc).
- Wrap the body in a paper towel, and put the towel into
- a plastic baggie. Tie off the baggie, and place in the
- refrigerator.
-
- If the body is cold:
-
- a. Wrap the corpse in a baggie, tie it off, and place
- in the refrigerator.
-
-
- It is imperative that the necropsy be done as soon as possible, not
- only for the most accurate results, but also for the reason that if a
- contagious disease is diagnosed, a program of quarantine and treatment can
- be started as soon as possible. Although it does seem horrible to have to
- have a dear companion's body subjected to such a routine, it really is in
- the best interest to have it done. It may just save your other birds.
-
- ===============================================================================
- E N D P A R T I I *last revised 7/5/94*
- ===============================================================================
- Archive-name: birds-faq/pets/part3
- Last-modified: 1994/7/6
- Version: 6
-
- ===============================================================================
-
-
- * * * W E L C O M E T O T H E F A Q * * *
- (F)reqently (A)sked (Q)uestions regarding rec.pets.birds.
-
- P A R T III
- ============
-
- This is a monthly posting of topics regarding birds that may prove
- useful to those new to this group or to the rewarding hobby of keeping birds.
- Or, more accurately, of your bird keeping you!
-
- This FAQ, as a collection of information, is copyrighted 1993,
- by Jodi L. Giannini, and distribution by means other than Usenet is by
- permission only. Removal of this copyright notice is not permitted.
-
-
- Part 3 covers Birds and Lung Cancer.
- Part 4 lists various Veterinarians throughout the country.
- Species-specific faqs cover the named species: Poicephalus, Greys,
- Macaws (there are separate faq's for the large and the 'mini' macaws),
- Lories and Lorikeets.
-
- Topics that are covered in Part 1 are: Bird magazines, books, and the like;
- Basic bird terminology; Choosing/Buying a bird; Cages, perches and Bird toys.
-
- Topics that are covered in Part 2 are: Diet and feeding; Taming and training;
- Travel with birds, Finding an avian vet; Health; Hazards; and First Aid.
-
-
-
- ==============================================================================
- LUNG CANCER AND PET BIRDS
- ==============================================================================
-
- --compiled and contributed by Mary Firestone (rclapp@apc.igc.org) (on EcoNet)
-
-
- LUNG CANCER AND BIRDKEEPERS: Three Studies
-
- Some members of the birdkeeping community have expressed concern
- over reports that scientific studies have shown birdkeeping to be
- a risk factor for respiratory cancers. Since I live with an
- unruly mob of conures and have easy access to the epidemiological
- literature, I decided to have a look at the studies. A very brief
- summary is shown below; more detail follows.
-
- Odds ratio = odds of exposure in patients with a disease divided
- by odds of exposure in controls (those without the disease). For
- example, if the odds of exposure in the patients is .5 and in the
- controls is .25, the odds ratio is 2.0. An OR of 2.0 for a group
- of patients means that people in that group are two times as
- likely to have been exposed to birdkeeping as controls. If the OR
- is .50, they are half as like to have been exposed.
-
- _________________________________________________________________
-
-
- Odds ratios for three variables
-
-
- Author, Bird Smoking Diet
-
- # of cases keeping
-
- Kohlmeier 2.4 16.08 daily carrot 0.24
-
- et al., 239 consumption
-
- Gardiner 1.29 19.69 beta carotene 0.56
-
- et al., 143 > 2000 mg/wk
-
- Holst et al., 6.7 10.0 vitamin C 0.23
-
- 49 > 50 mg/day
-
- _________________________________________________________________
-
-
- All three of these studies were case-control studies. In a
- case-control study, each case is compared with one or more
- non-cases. In general, a study with more cases is less likely to
- produce results solely due to chance. Errors due to study design
- can occur in a study of any size, and someone can always be found
- to disagree with a study design. It has been said that an
- epidemiologist is someone whose job is to disagree with other
- epidemiologists.
-
- Following are full citations, abstracts, and some additional data
- on each of the three studies. All articles and the editorial
- appeared in the British Medical Journal (BMJ).
-
- ________________________________________________
-
- "Avian exposure and bronchogenic carcinoma."
-
- Austen JS Gardiner: Monklands District General Hospital Medical
- Unit, Airdrie, Lanarkshire, Scotland ; Barbara A. Forey, and Peter
- N. Lee: P N Lee Statistics and Computing, Sutton, Surrey, England
-
-
- BMJ 305: 989-992, 24 October 1992. 3 references
-
- ABSTRACT: Objective - To investigate the association between
- birdkeeping and risk of lung cancer. Design - Case-control study
- asking detailed questions on exposure to domestic birds and other
- pets, smoking, and various demographic and potentially confounding
- variables. Setting - District general hospital; current
- admissions interviews in hospital or recent admissions interviewed
- at home. Patients - 143 patients with lung cancer, 143 controls
- with heart disease, and 143 controls with orthopaedic conditions
- individually matched for age, sex, date of admission, and current
- or past admission. Main outcome measures - Odds ratios for lung
- cancer in relation to various aspects of birdkeeping, after
- adjustment for smoking and other relevant confounding variables.
- Results - Risk of lung cancer was not significantly associated
- with household exposure to pet birds at any time or at various
- specific periods in life, or to keeping large numbers of birds.
- For specific types of birds no association was seen for living in
- households with budgerigars or canaries but risk was significantly
- associated with keeping pigeons (odds ratio 3.53, 95% confidence
- interval 1.56 to 7.98). This remained significant after
- regression analysis to account for confounding variables (3.9, 1.2
- to 12.62) in both sexes and all age groups. Conclusion - Bird
- keeping may confer some risk of lung cancer but the relation is
- not as strong as previously reported.
-
- Odds ratios for various exposures:
-
- Ever kept bird in household 1.29
-
- Type of pet
-
- Budgerigar 1.14
-
- Canary 0.54
-
- Pigeon 3.53
-
- Finch 1.28
-
- Cockatiel,parakeet,
-
- lovebird, parrot 2.03
-
- Dog 1.07
-
- Cat 0.77
-
- Other pets 1.22
-
- Ever worked
-
- In pet store 2.22
-
- In greenhouse w/chicken manure 20.01
-
- Current smoker 19.69
-
- Beta carotene >2000mg/wk 0.56
-
- NOTE: 97% of cases and 78% of controls had been smokers.
-
- ________________________________________________
-
- "Pet birds as an independent risk factor for lung cancer."
-
- Kohlmeier L, Arminger G, Bartolomeycik S, Bellach B, Rehm J and
- Thamm M.: Institute for Social Medicine and Epidemiology, Berlin,
- Germany.
-
- BMJ 305: 986-989, 24 Oct 1992. 37 references
-
- ABSTRACT: Objective - To test the hypothesis that exposure to pet
- birds increases risk of developing lung cancer. Design -
- Case-control study. Computerized interviews were used to assess
- previous exposure to pets and other risk factors for lung cancer.
- Setting - Three major hospitals treating respiratory disease in
- former West Berlin. Subjects - All people newly diagnosed as
- having primary malignant neoplasm of the trachea, bronchi, or lung
- who were 65 or younger and control subjects matched for age and
- sex from the general population of former West Berlin. 279 cases
- and 635 controls qualified for the study; 239 cases and 429
- controls participated. Main outcome measure - Odds ratio of
- developing lung cancer according to whether or not pet birds were
- kept and the duration of keeping pet birds. Results - In addition
- to the risk of lung cancer imposed by smoking, passive smoking and
- occupational exposure to carcinogens, an increased relative risk
- of 2.14 (95% confidence interval 1.35 to 3.40) was found among
- people exposed to pet birds. The adjusted odds ratio for
- exposures longer than 10 years was 3.19 (1.48 to 8.21).
- Conclusions - Avian exposure seems to carry a risk of lung cancer.
- Until the pathogenesis is understood, long term exposure to pet
- birds in living areas should be avoided, especially among people
- at high risk of developing lung cancer.
-
- EXCERPT FROM INTRODUCTION: Contact with birds has been associated
- with impaired pulmonary function, including chronic avian
- hypersensitivity pneumonitis or extrinsic allergic alveolitis.
- The result can be pulmonary interstitial fibrosis and permanent
- pulmonary impairment. Long term exposure to avian antigens has
- resulted in reduced T suppressor cell activity in lymphocytes
- obtained by lavage. Parasites such as Sarcocystis falcutula,
- carried by canaries and pigeons, are known to affect the pulmonary
- epithelial cells of the birds themselves. Non-smoking pigeon
- fanciers maintain high concentrations of IgG antibody to pigeon
- gamma globulin and increased rates of clearance of
- diethylenetriaminepenta-acetic acid labelled with technetium-99m,
- which indicate that the lungs' integrity is affected. Whether
- such changes initiate the development of cancerogenic cells has
- not been investigated in humans.
-
- NOTE: 95.4% of cases and 55% of controls were smokers.
-
- ________________________________________________
-
- Editorial: "Pet birds and lung cancer - smoking is still a
- confounder"
-
- John Britton (Senior Lecturer) and Sarah Lewis (Statistician):
- Respiratory Medicine Unit, City Hospital, Nottingham, England
-
- BMJ 305: 970-971, 24 Oct 1992.
-
- Final paragraph: Despite the possible sources of error in these
- studies it is essential to give the work credit. If valid, the
- association with pet birds would not only identify an easily
- avoidable cause of disease but also open new avenues for
- pathogenetic research. The immediate priority is to build on
- these findings by conducting investigations that control properly
- for the effects of smoking. One solution would be to study lung
- cancer only in lifetime non-smokers, perhaps by combining data on
- non-smokers from these three studies. The finding in the two
- papers in this issue of an association with intake of vitamin A
- also highlights the potential value of investigating dietary
- intervention in the prevention of lung cancer. Smoking may remain
- the most important cause of lung cancer, but we should not ignore
- other possible causes.
-
- ________________________________________________
-
- "For debate: Pet birds as an independent risk factor for lung
- cancer."
-
- Peter A. Holst (General Practitioner), Wassenaar, The Netherlands;
- Daan Kromhout (Professor, Institute of Social Medicine) and Ronald
- Brand (Statistician, Department of Medical Statistics): University
- of Leiden, The Netherlands
-
- BMJ 297: 1319-1321. 19 November 1988. 15 references
-
- ABSTRACT: To find out whether keeping birds in the home is an
- independent risk factor for lung cancer, a case-control study was
- carried out in four main hospitals in The Hague, The Netherlands.
- Forty nine patients under 65 years of age with lung cancer were
- matched for age and sex with two control subjects who attended the
- same general practice. Data were collected on social class,
- cigarette smoking, intake of beta carotene and vitamin C, and
- alcohol consumption. It was found that smoking, birdkeeping, and
- a low intake of vitamin C were significantly and independently
- related to the incidence of lung cancer. The odds ratio for lung
- cancer among people who kept birds as pets was estimated to be 6.7
- after adjusting for smoking and vitamin C intake. The results of
- this study suggest that keeping pet birds is an independent risk
- factor for lung cancer.
-
- NOTE: 98% of cases and 84% of controls were smokers.
-
- Holst has also published a book, Birdkeeping as a source of lung
- cancer and other human diseases: a need for higher hygienic
- standards. Heidelberg: Springer-Verlag, 1988.
-
- ________________________________________________
-
- Personally, I do not intend to give up my conures, but I do intend
- to install an air filter in the Fall; since my fans run
- continuously in the summer, the filter would not have much chance
- to do its work before the air is whisked away to the outdoors (and
- polluted outdoor air is whisked in). I have never been (or lived
- with) a smoker, and had no notable occupational exposure to
- respiratory carcinogens, so I would seem to be at lower risk than
- most of the cases in this study, but there are no guarantees.
- Even persons who are not in the known high risk categories
- (smoking, passive smoking, occupational exposure) occasionally get
- a disease, and not everyone in the high risk categories gets the
- disease.
-
- The principal question as I see it is: does living with birds
- enhance my life? The answer is: Yes.
-
-
- ==============================================================================
- E N D O F P A R T T H R E E *last revised 7/6/94*
- ==============================================================================
- Archive-name: birds-faq/pets/part4
- Last-modified: 1994/7/6
- Version: 6
-
- ==============================================================================
- D I S C L A I M E R
-
- THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION IS PROVIDED "AS-IS" WITH NO
- IMPLICIT OR EXPLICIT WARRANTY AND DOES NOT CONSTITUTE
- A RECOMMENDATION OF ANY OF THE LISTED NAMES. READER
- MUST ASSUME THE FULL RISK OF USING THE INFORMATION
- LISTED WITHIN THIS DOCUMENT
-
- D I S C L A I M E R
- ==============================================================================
- There was a old parrot of Dye,
- Who was lovely and also quite sly.
- He'd look a person right in the eye,
- and ask "I can talk...can *you* fly?"
- ==============================================================================
-
- * * * W E L C O M E T O T H E F A Q * * *
- (F)requently (A)sked (Q)uestions regarding rec.pets.birds
-
- PART III
- ========
-
- This is a monthly posting of topics regarding birds that may prove
- useful to those new to this group our to the rewarding hobby of keeping
- birds. Or, more accurately, of your bird keeping you!
-
- Comments, suggestions, chocolates to: Jodi Giannini (giannini@nova.umd.edu)
- This FAQ, as a collection of information, is copyrighted 1993 by Jodi L.
- Giannini, and distribution by means other than Usenet is by permission only.
- Removal of this copyright notice is not permitted.
-
- Thanks, gratitude, and pats on the back to Rocky Giannini for proofreading
- and doing the technical type stuff, Tom Baker for archiving, Ruth D. Miller,
- Larry J. Brackney, Kate Finn, Kelly Flynn, and all of the other
- rec.pets.birds readers who contributed -- Thank you very much!
-
- Topics that are covered in part 1 are: Bird magazines, books and the like;
- Basic bird terminology; Choosing/Buying a bird; cages, perches and Bird Toys.
-
- Part 2 covers Diet and feeding; Taming and training, Travel with birds;
- Finding an avian vet; Health; Hazards; and First Aid.
-
- Part 3 covers Birds and Lung Cancer.
-
- Species Specific Faq's cover the named species: Poicephaulus, Greys,
- Macaws (there are separate faq's for the large and 'mini' macaws),
- Lories and Lorikeets.
-
- ***This FAQ is by no means meant to replace the many wonderful and
- informative books, breeders, magazines, and veterinarians that are out
- there. ***
-
- ***IF YOU WISH TO SUBMIT A VET NAME YOU MUST USE THE FOLLOWING FORMAT***
-
- For the SUBJECT: line of your email, use VET, STATE NAME
-
- For the BODY of the email, please send info in this order:
-
- Dr.'s name
- Clinic name
- Street Address
- City, State, Zip
- Phone Number
- Fax Number
-
- if the Dr. works at different clinics, send those as well.
-
- ***USE OF THIS FORMAT MAKES IT MUCH EASIER FOR ME. THANKS!***
-
-
- ============================================================================
- V A R I O U S V E T E R I N A R I A N S B Y S T A T E
- =============================================================================
-
- ALABAMA
-
- ALASKA
-
- ARKANSAW
-
- ARIZONA
-
- Thomas Miller
- Valley Animal Hospital
- 4984 E. 22nd
- Tucson, AZ
- (602) 748-0331
-
-
- CALIFORNIA:
-
- Dr. Blake Milam
- All Pets Veterinary Clinic
- 1226-B Soquel Ave. Santa Cruz, CA 95062
- (408)425-0945
-
- Dr. Rosskopf and Dr. Woerpel
- Aviary Exotics in Manhattan Beach/Hawthorne, CA.
- 4871 West Rosecrans Av., Hawthorn, CA
- (310) 679-0693
-
- Dr. David Penney
- Dr. Jeffrey Bryan
- Irving Street Veterinary Hospital
- 1434 Irving St. at 14th Ave.
- San Francisco, CA 94122
- Telephone: (415) 664-0191
-
- Dr Tim Govers
- West Valley Pet Clinic
- 1630 S Saratoga-Sunnyvale Rd
- Cupertino, CA 95014
- 408/996-1155
-
- Dr. Stonebreaker
- Del Mar Veterinary Clinic,
- (street address not avail)
- Del Mar, CA
- (phone not avail)
-
- Dr. Robert Lawson
- (clinic name not avail)
- (steet address not avail)
- La Mesa, CA
- (phone not avail)
-
- Dr. Jeff Jenkins
- (clinic name not avail)
- (street address not avail)
- San Diego, CA
- (phone not avail)
-
- Dr. Lynn Dustin
- Bay Area Bird Hospital
- 2055 Tanavel
- San Francisco, CA
- 415-566-4359
-
-
- Dr. Lynn R. Dustin
- Bay Area Bird Hospital
- 2055 Taraval St, San Francisco, CA 94116
- (415) 566-4359
-
- Drs. Max Weiss and Dave Rupiper
- Capri Plaza Pet Clinic.
- 19588 Ventura Blvd.
- Tarzana, CA 91356
- (818) 881-6344
-
-
-
- COLORADO
-
- Dr David McCluggage
- Allpets Clinic
- Boulder, CO
- (303) 499-5335
-
- Dr Jerry LaBonde
- Englewood, CO
- (303) 290-8233
-
- Dr. Irmiger and Dr. McCluggage
- Allpets Clinic
- (street address not available)
- Boulder, CO.
- (phone not available)
-
- CONNECTICUT
-
- DELAWARE:
-
- Dr. Dinah E. Flack
- Lantana Veterinary Center
- 306 Lantana Drive
- Hockessin, DE 19707
- (302) 234-3275
-
- The clinic she works for has two offices & she splits her time
- between them. The second office is in Glasgow, Delaware; she can always
- be reached at the Latana office.
-
-
- FLORIDA
-
- Dr. Thomas L. Goldsmith, D.V.M., M.S.
- Exotic Animal and Avian Medicine and Surgery
- Zoo Med
- Country Club Animal Hospital
- 4115 S.W. 72nd Avenue
- Miami, Florida 33155
- Phone (305) 633-3300
- Fax: (305) 663-9205
-
-
- Dr. Pam Hendrickson,
- ABCDE Animal Clinic
- 3820 Burns Road
- Palm Beach Gardens, FL 33410
- Phone (407) 622-7370
-
-
- Dr. K. Zielezienski (known as Dr. Z)
- Specialist in Avian Medecine and Surgery
- Academy Animal Hospital
- 4211 N. Federal Hwy.
- Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33308
- (305) 564-6314
-
-
- GEORGIA:
-
- Dr. Alan Fusco
- Sprayberry Animal Hospital
- 2135 Post Oak Tritt
- Marietta, GA 30066
- 404-977-8300
-
- Dr. Cheryl Greenacre--Exotic Animal Specialist University Georgia
- School of Veterinary Medicine
- (street address not avail)
- Athens, GA
- 706-542-3221
-
- HAWAII
-
- IDAHO
-
- ILLINOIS:
-
- Peter Sakas D.V.M.
- Niles Animal Hospital and Bird Medical Center
- 7278 N. Milwaukee Ave.
- Niles, IL 60648
- 708-647-9325
-
- Scott E. McDonald, D.V.M.
- Niles Animal Hospital and Bird Medical Center P.C.
- 7278 Milwaukee Avenue
- Niles, IL 60714
- 708-647-9325
-
- Richard R. Nye, D.V.M.
- Midwest Bird & Exotic Animal Hospital
- 1923 So. Mannheim Road
- Westchester, IL 60154
- 708-344-8166
-
- The following vet is located in Cincinnati but is within driving dis-
- tance of northern Kentucky or southeastern Indiana.
-
- Dr. Bob Dahlhausen
- Forest Park Veterinary Clinic
- 1104 W. Kemper Road (exit 39 off I-275, about 1/2 mile south on Winton)
- Cincinnati, OH 45240
- (513) 851-6700
-
-
- INDIANIA
-
-
- Dr. Jim Koch DVM
- 115 N Smith Rd
- Bloomington, IN
- (812) 339-611?
- (located in Southern Indiana)
-
-
- IOWA:
-
- Dr. Lori B. Cherney
- Taylor Veterinary Hospital
- 315 State Street
- Cedar Falls, IA 50613
- 319-277-1883 - answered 24 hours/day
-
-
-
- KANSAS
-
- Dr. James R. Swanson
- Avian Practitioner
- 1930 N. 77th St.
- Kansas City, KS. 66112
- (913)334-6770
- He is a member of the Association of Avian Veterinarians.
-
-
- KENTUCKY
-
- LOUISANA
-
- MAINE
-
- MARYLAND:
-
- Dr. Gretchen Ginter-Ramierez
- Alpine Animal Hospital
-
- Cabin John, MD,
- 301-229-2400
-
- MASSACHUSETTS:
-
- Dr. Martha Lindsay
- Andover Animal Hospital
- 233 Lowell Street
- Andover, MA 01810
- 508-475-3600
-
- Dr. Gretchen Kaufman
- Tufts Vet School/Hospital
- 200 Westboro Road
- North Grafton, MA 01536
- 508-839-5395
-
-
- Dr. Kilgore and Dr. Sager
- Littleton Animal Hospital
- Rt 110, Littleton, Ma.
- (508)486-3101
-
-
- Dr. Majorie McKillian
- Windhover Veterinary Clinic
- (street address not available)
- Walpole, MA
- 508-668-4520
-
-
-
- MICHIGAN
-
- Dr. Fred Shulak
- North Branch Animal Hospital
- 17630 Twelve Mile Road
- Southfield, MI 48076
- (313) 557-7773
-
- The 313 area code is being split, so it may become 810 at some point.
-
-
- MINNESOTA
-
-
- John A. Newman DVM
- 30 West Mendota Road
- Inver Grove Heights, MN
- (612) 450-6445
- (612) 455-2258
-
- Vet Teaching Hospital
- 1365 Gortner Avenue
- University of Minnesota
- Saint Paul Campus
- St. Paul, MN 55108
- (612) 625-7798
-
- Cedar Pet Clinic
- Dr. John Baillie
- 3447 Cedar Avenue South
- Minneapolis, MN
- (612) 721-7431
-
- Dr. Tammy Jenkins
- St. Francis Animal and Bird Hospital
- (street address not available)
- (612) 645-2808.
-
- MISSISSIPPI
-
- MISSOURI
-
- MONTANA
-
- NEVADA
-
- NEW HAMPSHIRE
-
- Upper Valley Veterinary Services
- 7 Slayton St.
- Lebanon, NH 03756
- (603) 448-3534
-
- They cover the area around Lebanon, NH and White River Junction, VT (along
- with several other clinics.
-
-
- NEW JERSEY:
-
- Dr. Kenneth Danzen
- 1785 Springdale Road
- Cherry Hill, NJ 08003
- (phone not avail)
-
- NEW MEXICO:
-
- Dr. Linda M. Contos DVM
- Dr. John E. Heidrich PhD DVM
-
- Albuquerque Avian Clinic
- 6901 2nd Street NW
- (505) 345-3521
-
- also at:
-
- Riverside Animal Hospital
- 9174 Coors NW
- (505) 898-8874
-
-
- Dr. Kathleen Ramsey
- Cottonwood Clinic
- (street address not avail)
- Espanola, NM
- 505-753-3790
-
-
- NEW YORK:
-
- Dr. L. Pesek
- Westbury Animal Hospital
- 319 Union Ave.
- Westbury, NY
- 516/333-1123
-
-
- Dr. Douglas Aspros
- Bond Animal Hospital
- 250 Central Avenue
- White Plains, NY 10606
- (914) 949-8850
-
- Also, there is a nearby veterinary emergency hospital that is open only at
- night, when the regular vets are closed. They are:
-
- The Veterinary Emergency Group, P.C.
- 193 Tarrytown Road
- White Plains, NY 10607
- (914) 949-8779
-
- They don't specialize in birds, but they did save the life of one of my
- cockatoos one night.
-
- The other avian vet is:
-
- Dr. Quisenberry (sp?)
- The Animal Medical Center
- Manhattan, NY
-
-
- Dr. Ken Dodge
- Town & Country Hospital for Pets PC
- 4707 South Salina Street
- Syracuse, NY 13205
- (315) 469-5777
-
-
- Brookville Animal Hospital
- Dr. Krasnoff (sp?)
- Dr. Monaco
- 691 Glen Cove Rd
- Glen Head, NY
- 516/674-3322
-
-
-
- NORTH CAROLINA:
-
- Dr. Greg Burkett, DVM
- Avian Veterinary Services / The Birdie Boutique
- 3033 University Dr.
- Durham, NC 27707
- (919) 490-3001
-
- Dr. Kevin Flammer
- Dr. Lori Degeners
- Dr. April Romagnonos
- NC State College of Veterinary Medicine
- Veterinary Teaching Hospital
- 4700 Hillsboro Street
- Releigh, NC, 27606
- 919-821-9500
-
- NORTH DAKOTA:
-
- OHIO:
-
- Dr. Bob Dahlhausen
- Forest Park Veterinary Clinic
- 1104 W. Kemper Road (exit 39 off I-275, about 1/2 mile south on Winton)
- Cincinnati, OH 45240
- (513) 851-6700
-
- Dr. Jamie Lindstrom
- Animal Clinic Northview
- 34910 Center Ridge Road
- North Ridgeville, Ohio 44039
- (216) 327-8282
-
-
- Dr. Norman Tulodziecki
- Parma Animal Hospital, Inc.
- 5522 Pearl Road
- Parma, OH 44129
- (216) 885-1818
-
- (Intersection of Ridge & Pearl Rds (west on Pearl) close to
- Cleveland-Parma-Brooklyn city lines.
-
-
-
-
- OKLAHOMA
-
- OREGON:
-
- Dr. David Barno
- Rock Creek Veterinary Clinic
- (street address not avail)
- Beaverton, OR
- (phone not avail)
-
- PENNSYLVANIA:
-
- Dr. Robert Wagner
- Fox Chapel Animal Hospital
- (street address not avail)
- Pittsburgh, PA
- 412-781-6446
-
- RHODE ISLAND
-
- SOUTH CAROLINA
-
- SOUTH DAKOTA
-
- TENNESEE
-
- TEXAS:
-
- Dr, Roger Pigott
- Windsor Park animal
- 4322 South Staples
- Corpus Christi TX, 78411
- (512) 992-9731
-
- Dr. James Fix
- Dr. Mark Gochenour
- West Houston Veterinary Medical Associates, Inc.
- 1874 South Kirkwood
- Houston, TX 77077
- (713) 493-4712
-
- Dr. Taffi Tippit
- Bissonnet-Southampton Veterinary Clinic
- 2028 Bissonnet
- Houston, TX 77005
- (713) 520-8743
-
- Dr. Belmonte
- Worcester Cat and Bird Clinic
- (street address not avail)
- Austin,TX
- (phone not avail)
-
- Dr. Bill Campbell
- Anderson Mill Animal Clinic
- (street address not avail)
- Austin, TX
- (phone not avail)
-
- UTAH
-
- Dr. Ross Anderson
- Central Valley Veterinary Hospital
- 55 East Miller Avenue (3175 South)
- Salt Lake City, Utah 84115
- 801-487-1321
-
-
- Dr. Kelly Huston
- Dr. Dave Shupe
- All Pet Complex
- 9860 South 700 East
- Sandy, Utah 94093
- (801) 572-4600
-
- Dr. Mortin Orr
- Exotic Pet Hospital
- 1050 Fort Union Blvd.
- Family Center
- Midvale, Utah 84047
- (801) 565-1263
-
- VERMONT
-
- VIRGINIA:
-
- Dr. Rose Ann Fiskett
- Potomac Valley Veterinary Hospital
- 9553 Braddock Rd (Twinbrook Shopping Center)
- Fairfax, VA
- (703)425-PETS
-
-
- Dr. William Olkowski
- Cedarcrest Animal Clinic
- Rt. 631, Fishersville, VA
- (703) 943-7577
-
-
-
- WASHINGTON STATE:
-
- Cynthia Bishop
- Northwest Veterinary Hospital
- 4922 Stoneway North
- Seattle, Wa 98103
- 206-545-4255
-
-
- Dr. Elise Thomas
- Phinney Ridge Animal Hospital
- 8205 Greenwood Ave N.
- Seattle, WA 98103
- 206-784-9200
-
- also at:
-
- Emerald City Emergency Clinic
- 4102 Stone Way North
- Seattle, WA 98103
- 206-634-9000
-
- Dr. James R. Onorati
- Burien Veterinary Hospital
- 14628 Ambaum Blvd. S.W.
- Seattle, WA 98166
- (206)242-1290
-
- WEST VIRGINIA
-
- WISCONSIN
-
- WYOMING
- ==============================================================================
- E N D O F P A R T F O U R *last revised 7/6/94*
- =============================================================================
-